I’ve begun knitting the Marshland pullover sweater by Tin Can Knits – see the pattern link at the end of this page. The pattern is in the “Strange Brew” book. I chose this pattern because I had worsted weight yarn to use.
I have too many stitches
Because the pattern colorwork looks to me like it was meant more for a man – it’s a unisex design, I decided to change up the knitting with other color patterns. The pink rows and the last yellow and green rows are different from the suggested pattern. However, all that was ripped back and I didn’t re-do it the same way.
The yellow Arranmore yarn was purchased to knit “Big Love” – a cardigan. That pattern was confusing, so I never knit it. I’m using other stash yarn, and some is not exactly the same weight as the Arranmore, but oh well.
First time doing this – pick up right hand side of each knit stitch, all the way around. This will be the new starting row.
The “Make One” Rows
The pattern calls for places where M1 is needed – that is “make one” – and a stitch must be added. There is no suggestion about how to make a stitch, so you’d better have a favorite way! (HINT: Use the backwards loop method.)
On the very last increase row of the yoke, I somehow added too many M1’s and ended up with way too many stitches. I didn’t realize this, and kept knitting…. HINT / NOTE TO SELF: Count your stitches right after that last M1 row…!!!!!
In my photo above, my mistake row was in the brown section just below the pink. So I picked up stitches above the pink rows to start again. Everything below the needle was removed.
How to Rip Back Many Rows
I’ve never had to fix a knitting mistake as big as this one. I could not simply un-knit some stitches. I needed to rip many rows out. So I watched a couple of really bad videos, but the gist of it was to use a needle to pick up the right side of each V knit stitch. This has to be done slowly so none are missed. Also be sure you stay on the correct / same row!
But first, I pulled out the 32 inch needle I’d been knitting with – that gave me the ability to try on my sweater (very first photo). I used the same needle I’d been using to pick up the new stitches. I did this on a non-colorwork row because it was easiest. I began at the BOR marker and continued to the end. Now I had all new stitches on my needle.
Then I had to unravel all that previous knitting and rewind the balls. I was left with this (photo below) and ready to begin again. When I got to that M1 row where my error occurred, I used stitch markers to help me count.
Ready to try again
Below is the same yoke on my second knit. This time I followed the pattern’s suggested colorwork design. The sleeve stitches have been put on holders and all counts are perfect. So onward I knit!
This time I counted stitches
Stranded colorwork knitting is fun to do, and keeps a project interesting. Katie’s Kep, the Turkish Watchcap, and the Triple Patterned Watchcap were hats I enjoyed doing in Fair Isle, aka stranded colorwork. The only other sweater I knit like this is the Umpqua and it was my first sweater.
I’ve come across one row in the Marshland design where three colors were used, but all the others are two color strands.
This post is specifically for catching floats while doing Fair Isle, or stranded colorwork knitting.
Fair Isle knitting is when two colors are used to knit across one row. For this example, the Main Color (MC) is held in the right hand, and the Contrast Color (CC) is held in the left hand – you may change that, but it’s how I did it. By using two hands the project is knit using both English and Continental style.
If you haven’t mastered two-handed knitting, you can still knit colorwork if you keep each yarn in the correct position. But keep trying to learn two-handed knitting because it’s a lot of fun.
The Triple-patterned Watchcap
My example here is my second knitting of the Triple-patterned Watchcap from the “Hat’s On” book. The first hat was made in pink and off-white. It is a small size and won’t fit me, so I wanted one that would.
I decided to use up some of my Brooklyn Tweed Arbor yarn in greens and gold, which I bought to knit some mittens a few months ago.
Finished and drying
This watchcap has three sections of colorwork (hence the name). However, this time I changed the second section of colorwork and made hearts. That section of the hat will not be seen while being worn because the brim flips up over it – see image below.
The pattern begins with a braid, then the first section of colorwork is knit. The work is turned, and the rest of the hat is knit.
Layed out flat, the first section is inside-out.
The brim folds up over the second section of colorwork
You may wonder why I would bother, but I love doing colorwork and I wanted to try that heart pattern. I will use it again at a later time on another hat where it will be seen. The pattern calls for colorwork at this area.
Managing the Floats
When one of the yarns (either MC or CC) has to be carried along behind the work for more than a few stitches, while the opposite yarn is being used, those yarn strands – called “floats” – need to be caught. If they are not, there will be long strands of yarn on the wrong side of the garment.
Some people say five stitches are the max before catching a float. I think it’s really the knitter’s preference, but long floats are not advisable. Once you know how, it’s simple to do, so just catch them often.
My photo below is of the back of the knitting (that hearts section in the hat) and shows how it will look when the floats are caught. There are no long loose bits, and it makes a “fabric” of it’s own.
Wrong side, showing carried floats
Carrying the Left Hand Yarn (CC)
This is the easy yarn to carry. As you get ready to do the stitch, slip the LH yarn over the needle from back to front. Then knit with the RH yarn – do not pull the LH yarn off, just let it get caught up with the MC yarn as you finish the stitch.
See it done on Suzanne Bryan’s tutorial around 4:10 into the video. Also, below I mention that she wraps the other – RH yarn – around 3:20.
Carrying the Right Hand Yarn (MC)
Here is where I had my trouble. I learned it correctly and then forgot the next time I knit. When the CC yarn (or RH yarn) is being used for four, or more, stitches at a time, carry the MC by doing this:
For the next CC stitch, bring up the MC yarn (held in the right hand) and wrap around the needle (as if to knit with it – my dark green yarn below). Then, wrap the CC yarn from FRONT TO BACK over the needle (blue yarn).
Wrapping the yarn correctly
Now, pull the MC yarn (dark green) up over the needle and it will be caught by the CC at the back of the work. A tug on the carried yarn keeps it from showing through to the front.
If the CC (LH yarn) is not wrapped front to back, the stitch will twist and on the next round of knitting will have to be corrected before knitting. I was, on my second Katie’s Kep, and kept wrapping my left-hand yarn from back to front and couldn’t figure out why my stitches looked wrong on the next round. I was wrapping that CC yarn the wrong way!
Suzanne Bryan’s video is good, but you have to look closely at time 3:20 + to see how she wraps the LH yarn front to back and then pulls up the RH yarn so it won’t show through.
I like to knit colorwork hats for winter because they are naturally heavier because of the two yarns. Those floats create a wrong side design of their own.
A Hat That Fits
My newest Triple-patterned Watchcap fits my head – yay! It is snug, and I could probably wear the XL size. This one is a large and measures 20 inches around. A hat knit like this does not have much “give” because of the colorwork designs.
I do love this design and it has become one of my favorites to knit. I see one in the future that will be full of hearts!
Size Large, fit is snug.
See the pattern at Ravelry, but it is not for sale alone. It’s part of a book full of great hat patterns. I highly recommend the Hat’s On! book.
Here are some of the other hats I’ve knit from the same book.
The last few hats I have knit have had brims with corrugated ribbing. You can see it on this page in the Katie’s Kep and Tettegouche (links to pattern below too). This type of rib is worked as a purl 2, knit 2 around, switching colors between the knits and purls. It is often used in Fair Isle, stranded knitting designs and the yarn is held in two hands.
Begin by Making a Nice Cast-on
When I began knitting, I hurried through my cast-ons so I could get started with the project. I only knew one simple cast-on, and it was not a good one for hats. Now I use the Old Norwegian, or German Twisted, cast-on, which is the same thing as far as I can tell. It makes a loose, stretchy first row so the hat won’t be tight around the forehead. It’s also a fast cast-on once you get the hang of it.
A good wool such as Rauma or Shetland (Jamieson & Smith), in fingering weight is suggested for this type of hat knitting.
Once the stitches are cast onto a 16 inch circular needle, in the size your pattern calls for, join them with the stitches straight and even, making sure there is no twist. I use the drop and switch method of joining, where each stitch at the end of the needles are swapped. Then, place a marker to remember this is the beginning of the round – BOR.
Since I first wrote this page I have found a helpful page at TECHknitting: Corrugated ribbing tricks and tips. They explain corrugated ribbing and it’s uses and potential curling problem. Also they have an interesting section about how to handle purling the colors.
Begin the Rib – this is how I chose to do it.
Once the cast on is complete DO NOT KNIT AROUND – go right into the knits and purls. Doing a solid knit row before the ribbing will cause the edge to curl up.
For the first round, begin with the main color (it was tan for my hat) held in the right hand (for knitting English style) and purl two stitches. Move the yarn to the back of the work. Now add the new color (orange in the hat pictured) and knit two stitches while the yarn is held in your left hand, Continental style. Bring the MC, (tan yarn) to the front and purl two – and so on. I will be using those two colors for the entire round.
The brim of this hat is knit in 2×2 corrugated rib
Don’t forget to move the yarn to the back of the work once the two purl stitches are made! ….I made this mistake and had to begin over.
For my Katie’s Kep #2 (above), my first CC (contrast color) is orange and I did three rows before I added the second contrast color, which is light blue. Every row is knit the same way with the MC (tan) held in my right hand and the CC in the left. I do it like this because I can’t purl using my left hand.
Holding the yarn correctly is important in colorwork knitting. Using two hands becomes quite easy with practice. Using two hands means the yarn will stay on top (right hand yarn, or Main Color) and on bottom (left, Contrast Color). Doing this makes the CC stand out. Sometimes a pattern will ask you to knit the main color and then purl the contrast color – which keeps the main color prominent.
See it below in the first Katie’s Kep I knit which has a dark blue background (MC).
Katie’s Kep Fair Isle hat begins with a corrugated rib around the brim.
Learn to Knit Using Two Hands
If you don’t know how to do this type of knitting using two hands, look for a good videothat shows you how. And then practice! Colorwork is easiest when knit in the round. In fact, personally, I don’t know how to do it any other way.
Then, you will just need to know how to carry those floats when colors become more spaced apart in a row – but you won’t have to do (much of) that on these hats!
Colorwork is in chart form, FYI.
Love Katie’s Kep? Download the pattern for free here.
The hat below is called Tettegouche, and the pattern for this one can be purchased at Ravelry. Believe me, the other hats look a lot better than mine. I used colors on hand and they are not the greatest combination. You can see the use of the corrugated rib again.
Finished Tettegouche
My last word on the corrugated rib isthat it is less stretchy than a 1×1 or 2×2 regular hat rib. It’s meant to be sturdy and pretty at the same time. Often a smaller needle is used for this type of brim and then you switch over to a larger size for the top of the hat. A wool yarn in fingering weight is suggested.
At first, I was not interested in learning the brioche stitch. Most patterns I saw kind of turned me off. In fact, I considered brioche to be a bit ugly sometimes. Then again, some brioche patterns are stunning! This type of knitting can create hats that are reversible, with a different look on each side.
Here is the beginning of a hat with brioche in three colors. First I used red and white, then added some blue. If I had been able to knit this correctly, the hat could be worn with the white (gray) mostly showing, or the color side. It could have ended up being a nice hat – if I hadn’t failed so miserably at knitting it!
My attempt at brioche knitting
Brioche is reversible
Brioche Hat – “Skipp” by Brooklyn Tweed
I love to knit hats and I’ve knit a few BT patterns. Hats are my favorite knitting projects because they are quick and use DPNs for only a short time. After I knit the Habitat hat in bright orange cables for my daughter, I wanted to knit more hats. Why not learn some new things while doing so? And let’s try some brioche.
My son had given me a Brooklyn Tweed gift certificate for Mother’s Day and I needed to use it. I decided to buy some patterns because my yarn stash is already large. One of the hat patterns I purchased is called “Skipp” and it’s done in brioche stitch.
The idea of creating a reversible hat appealed to me, and brioche creates a reversible fabric. Yippee… onward. But first I would have to learn a new kind of cast-on to create a nice hat edging.
Hat’s can’t be knit until a good cast-on is completed. These special cast-on directions will create a tidy edge for a brioche knit hat. As I note on this page, I did a few different cast-ons but then had lots of trouble jumping in and beginning the pattern.
#1. Rib Cabled Cast-on
The cast on for the Skipp beanie is called a Rib Cabled Cast On. It’s not that difficult to accomplish, but I needed to use two yarns held together (notes for this pattern). I can’t go into the list of all the mistakes I made because there were too many, but in general the stitches in my rounds didn’t line up at the join. There are no directions for joining in the round – and this is the problem.
First of many fails….this shows that rib cable cast-on with double yarn
Hint: To learn brioche use two contrasting colors of yarn. Don’t use variegated. Make the stitches easy to tell apart by color. Also, try a pattern that calls for a heavy weight yarn. This will make that difficult cast-on progress faster!
Grrrrrrr…..
So I decided to try again with a single yarn color and I began that looooong cast-on again. I needed two yarns, so I had to cut a length from my skein hoping it would be enough – it wasn’t – only made it to 60 stitches and needed 96.
Hint: This type of cast-on uses lots of yarn. More than a normal cast on.
Ripped out again and cut a longer length – I needed about double (if you try this, double what you’d use for a normal long-tail cast on). Got finished with that cast on, joined and began the purl using both yarns – but I was only supposed to use one… when I went to un-purl that stitch the join fell apart… I don’t even know what happened, but at that point I gave up for the day and ripped it out.
Knitting Skipp Video Reference
I found THIS VIDEO of a woman who is actually knitting the Skipp hat… at about 5:47 minutes she shows how to join the cast-on, which is to simply purl into the first stitch for the set up round. What? Could it really be this easy??
The video is not great, but at least it tells how to join after the cast on. So, I tried it – just began with a purl like she did. And my join was not really a join… I discovered this after a couple more rounds. It looked like crap. This was another waste of time. (However, if I ever get past the cast-on, this video shows the crown shaping for Skipp, which I might need.)
#2. The Italian Tubular Cast-on
In Jared Flood’s tutorial for the Italian Cast On, he says it’s perfect for brioche. He knits a small, flat brioche sample. This is a good video but there are no directions for joining in the round because it’s back and forth knitting...! So, no help there.
Andrea Mowry has a tutorial for Two Color Tubular cast-on which is pretty good. She slowly (thank-you) shows and explains the cast-on and set up rows. See my examples below from following her video. Notice my circle is not joined because there were no directions for that – OF COURSE…!!! But this video is a good one.
Her video is for her “Harlow” brioche hat pattern. The cast-on and two set up rows are knit before joining in the round. If I could get to this point, join in the round, and begin brioche knitting, I think I would be okay.
The Italian tubular cast-on is not easy, in my opinion. As the stitches are put onto the needle, they are loose and if you stop or take your hand away, the stitches fall off the needle! I suggest using two colors because it’s easier to see where you are in the cast on, and in the video.
I never figured out how to do any new “brioche” cast-ons, but began the Skipp hat using a normal cast-on. Then, I kept messing up my knitting and ripped the whole thing out.I hate brioche.
So What is My Problem?
I’ll tell you where I keep getting stuck – it’s at the BOR (beginning of round). Once the cast-on is finished I can’t join correctly because the knitting of brioche requires different BOR stitches. I guess maybe adding one extra stitch to combine with a regular stitch might work. Usually I transfer the two end stitches on my needles to join in the round, but that won’t work for brioche. Am I just making this more difficult than it needs to be?
#4. Long-tail Cast-on Over Two Needles
Maybe another designer can explain all this better. So I went looking for a new pattern to try.
The free hat pattern called BriocheStarter Hat (link below) is listed as using worsted yarn. But, the cast on number is the same as Skipp’s (fingering weight) at 96 stitches. This is confusing, and must be wrong. I noticed that many knitters using worsted cast-on fewer stitches (80).
And what type of cast on does this free pattern call for? A long-tail cast on over two needles. The tutorial does not show how this cast-on looks once it’s finished. One needle gets pulled out, and I’m not sure I would like the looks of this cast on. It sounds a little odd but what do I know. My Vogue Knitting book also says to do the brioche cast-on in this manner. (Truthfully this is one I did not try myself.)
For a free pattern, this one is very well written with charted and written directions for knitting brioche. The designer does mention knitting the first couple rows flat and then to join… AGAIN…no directions for how to make that join and then begin the pattern.
Please, someone help me get my cast-on joined!
Brioche Knitting Patterns
I have not knit any of these projects, but if I ever decide to try brioche again – and get it right – I will probably try one of these.
Brioche Knots – beautiful hat by Katrin Shubert, done in DK yarn in two colors.
Gina’s Brioche Hat and Cowl – FREE pattern by Purl Soho – This pattern uses a rolled brim cast on which means after a normal cast on, simple rows of knitting are done to create the roll. The second color is added after that.
Failing at Brioche in Photos
Once I began to knit brioche, I loved it – when things were going well – but most of my knitting was a BIG FAT FAIL.
For the “hat” below I did a normal long-tail cast-on, because I gave up on the special brioche cast-ons. Although I had many mistakes – which mainly began at the beginning of each round – I kept knitting for the practice. Finally, I took photos and ripped out the project.
I will NOT be attempting to knit brioche again anytime soon, but will post this page for future reference. If you have any tips for brioche knitting, or have a favorite cast-on, I’d love to hear from you in the comments.
Brioche knitting
Dark blue yarn added
BOR, a slipped purl stitch begins this round so I am knitting this row using gray yarn.
New England's Narrow Road 