New England native, Florida resident. Sharing my experiences on the water, beach-combing, gardening and camping. Zazzle designer and knitting pattern reviewer.
I had a great time visiting New Hampshire and seeing my kids. That small town feel never gets old.
It’s been three years since I’ve been able to visit my old home town. Actually, I only lived in New Hampshire for eleven years, but I call it home. I would love to still be living there.
Visiting Tenney Farm
A favorite farm, in the town of Antrim, where I first lived when I moved north, is Tenney Farm. The greenhouses were being filled with little seedlings of all kinds, and loads of gorgeous hanging baskets.
“Out own Stuff”
Ready for spring in New Hampshire!
Greenhouses
Picking out a hanging basket.
We were picking out a basket as a gift for someone, and it was so hard to choose from the wide, and gorgeous selection of flowers.
Nearly planting time.
Potted petunias in the greenhouse
I love, and miss, the small town feel of the area. I grew up in New England and miss the change of seasons. Spring is very welcome in the north, and much appreciated, after living through a long, cold winter. Unfortunately the Black Flies are out at this time of year, but they weren’t too bad yet..
Nature Inspiration
I’m staying with my daughter, and for the first few days we took walks in the woods behind her house. She does birding, so I tagged along for the fresh air. After we watched (from the house) a mama bear and two tiny, adorable cubs passing through the back woods, we stopped going for walks in the woods!
My daughter also volunteers and counts spotted salamanders with the Salamander Crossing Brigade. The volunteers go out on rainy nights and count the cool looking salamanders for science. Of course, my daughter dragged her old mum along for the fun! (Salamander photo in the slideshow below.)
Birch
Salamander crossing
Frankie loves the catnip plant!
A Trip to Harrisville to See the Yarn
I couldn’t be so close to Harrisville Designs and not visit! There was no room in my small suitcase for even one skein of yarn, but I loved viewing the shop. Will write another post about our outing on a beautiful Spring day AND the yarn I bought (ordered) once I got home!
Harrisville Designs Yarn Shop in Harrisville, New Hampshire
Picking Tulips in New Hampshire
I certainly miss living in a place where Spring is celebrated in a big way. After a long cold winter, the plants go nuts and grow like mad. Gorgeous yellow forsythia were everywhere. All the daffodils were open, and the tulips were coming along. Everything grows fast, like it knows time is limited before the warmth is gone once again.
In Hancock, a quaint little town in the southern part of the state, there is now a farm that grows tulips. We stopped to check it out on our way home from Harrisville. My daughter said that they ask you to make parking reservations at busy times. It was mid-week, and we figured, “How busy could it be?” Well, for a mid day, mid week visit, the field (parking lot) was full of cars, the road was full of people, and the tulip field was hopping! We were stunned at the turn out. Wolf Pine Hollow Farm at tulip time is apparently a big deal.
L takes photos
Tractor on the hill
Tent where you pay, and port-a-potties (far right)
Old truck
Things to know before you visit:
Parking is in a grassy (and possibly muddy) field.
There is strenuous walking involved – from the field, up the road, up a hill, and through the tulip area. (We saw a parking area next to the tulip field and it looked like those with difficulty walking could park there – call first.)
Pick your choice of tulips and pay $2.50 for each stem at a tent area at the field.
Way back beyond the tent are port-a-potties if you need them.
If you want ice cream, plan to wait, and wait, and wait. Our two tiny ice cream cones cost $11.50 and the girl admitted she didn’t know how to make change!
As is true in many small towns, the talk gets around. I heard stories about this place from the locals. Let’s just say that New Englanders like their small, quiet places and greatly resist most attempts to change things. A search reveals that the Farm is now up for sale. If you are a multi-millionaire you may be interested.
Time to Go Back South
After two weeks of visiting with my kids and enjoying the beauty of New Hampshire, I was heading back to heat and humidity. During my stay I reconnected with some old friends at my high school class reunion! Met up with my Aunt and cousin, whom I hadn’t seen for ages, and learned to play poker at my son’s house.
Leaving Manchester, NH
When I boarded the plane, I took with me some scrapes and bruises from falling off an e-bike (twice – I’m a klutz), and a tick bite on my back, but I was, as always, very sad to leave.
I think I first saw the Interisland Shawl, and pattern information, on Instagram. The shawl caught my eye because it is small, and crescent shaped. (Link to pattern down the page.)
Usually I have more than one knitting project going at a time. Many knitters do. For me, it’s because I like one simple project and one that needs more attention. Mornings are good for knitting more complicated things. Evenings call for simple knits and purls while watching a TV show. Even though I am still working on the Rebel Cardigan, I wanted something else to do. Also, I’m attempting to use us some old yarn.
Crescent Shaped Shawls
Shawls can be knit in many ways. They can be large or small, knit in fine or heavy yarn. I prefer a crescent shape that is not very wide. The Interisland Shawl is shaped like that.
Often a shawl begins by casting on at the top center. Knitting then expands outward to create the long, curved shape. This one is knit differently. The pattern begins by knitting the border, which is a repeating lace pattern.
I have completed the lace pattern, for the border, twice – see my picture. And, I did make a goof, but I am not good at fixing lace. In fact, I rarely knit lace. It’s a bunch of yarn-overs and knit 2 togethers. I don’t find it especially fun, but it looks nice. Because it’s not a wide border, the pattern’s lace rows are manageable. I look at this knitting project as good practice. And I expect to have a wearable, lightweight scarf when done.
Lace edging
Knitters Need to Know
Here’s what knitters should know about this pattern.
The lacework is charted and written out line by line. I’m following the chart. After the entire lacework border is finished, all stitches will be picked up along the edge and the remainder of the shawl is knit. Short rows are involved to create the rounded shape.
The name for the shawl is explained on the designer’s pattern page. Or check out more of Donna Smith’s Shetland designs – Ravelry page.
After fiddling around with dishcloths, hats and scarves for a while, and getting basic stitches learned, I needed a bigger knitting project. I yearned to make a sweater just like all those pretty knitted sweaters I was seeing everywhere online.
I tried to find out as much information as I could before choosing the pattern. I read blogs, Ravelry pattern reviews, and visited the forums, but I still felt indecisive. What type should I choose? A top down, or bottom up? Cardigan or pullover? Plain or colorwork? I had done a bit of colorwork and liked it. A cardigan seemed like too much to handle with button bands, buttonholes and buttons! So, I chose a bottom-up pullover with some colorwork at the top by a designer I’d seen mentioned quite a bit, and bought the Umpqua sweater pattern by Caitlin Hunter.
Here’s a hint, you will figure out what you like best after you begin knitting sweaters! The trouble is, sweater knitting is expensive because of the amount of yarn needed. Also, often many different needles are required. Be ready to spend money. I knit a lot of sweaters I didn’t like to get to this point!
Learning From Beginner Mistakes
Here I am (below) wearing my Umpqua sweater. It has a lot of problems, because I really had no idea what I was doing.
Wearing my Umpqua sweater
First of all, the pullover is huge! The yarn I used was Superwash merino. Superwash yarn will stretch when washed, and that is what this sweater did. It was horrifying. I now knit with wool when sweater knitting, unless making something for a child or baby (which I have few reasons to do).
Second, there is an ugly pooling of colors on that sleeve. I had no idea at the time what “color pooling” was, but there it is. Hint: choose a solid color yarn. Even then, it’s a good idea to blend it when the skein is running low, but chances are it will look nice.
Third, the stranded colorwork on the yoke should have been knit in a larger needle so it would be smoother, and not pucker. Colorwork is generally tighter than plain old knitting.
It was fun to complete my first knitting project, but I decided to give the sweater away. I knew I would never wear it because it was so darn big! Live and learn.
The Expense of Sweater Knitting
I remember really wanting to knit a sweater. I did not have a clue as to the expense of doing so. The yarn is an obvious cost, and if you want a nice, cozy and comfy sweater made of non-acrylic yarn you will have to buy about 1,000+ yards of fairly expensive yarn.
If you have few to no knitting needles, you will need those too. Generally a sweater needs a circular needle large enough to hold all the body stitches. A size 32” length will usually work. Then there are the sleeves and neck. A 16” circular is needed for those, along with double-pointed needles (DPNs) for the small cuff circumference. Personally, I have some 9” circular needles to replace the DPNs.
If you have no needles, and need to find your gauge, buy only the long circular needle until you know if that size (not length, but needle size) will work for your project. If the pattern calls for a size 7 with a particular gauge but your gauge is too small or too large, another needle size is needed.
Sweater Knitting Terminology Explained
Good knitwear designers will describe their pattern before you even spend a penny. Whether the pattern is found on their website, or on their Ravelry page, the sweater sizes are listed (with yarn amounts needed), along with a description of how the sweater is knit. They give sizing, yarn types used, and often what special techniques will be used. From all that, the knitter will have an idea of amount of yarn needed – to figure price.
Knit Seamlessly – What does that mean?
Top-down sweaters are knit from the top down, and bottom-up sweaters, well – you guessed it. Often a designer will describe the sweater as “knit seamlessly from the top down / bottom up”. Seamlessly means the sweater is not knit in sections. There will be no side, or shoulder seams to sew together.
Sweaters that are not seamless will be knit flat in pieces that must be seamed together after the knitting is complete. Often sweaters with cables will be knit this way. For seamed sweaters, front and back pieces are knit flat (not in the round) and the pieces will need to be sewn together up the sides and at the shoulders. I’ve never knit a sweater like this.
Seamless sweaters are knit in the round (pullovers) or flat – back and forth (cardigans) and will have sleeve stitches that need to be put on hold because the body and sleeves are knit separately. You can’t get a way from that, unless your sweater is sleeveless!
Usually stitches are put on hold using a different yarn (called waste yarn). It should be thin, and not the color of your project. You will put all the sleeve stitches on hold with this yarn and have to pick up those stitches again later to knit the sleeves.
Examples of stitches “on hold”
The thumb is put on hold while I finish the finger sectionFine Sand sweater with armholes on holdShoulder and back stitches on hold while knitting other shoulder stitches for Playdate
Advantages of Knitting a Top-down Sweater
A top down sweater will begin at the neckline. The cast-on is done and the sweater expands out from there according to the pattern.
Usually, the back of neck shaping includes short rows, which you really want for comfort. Bottom up sweaters should also include this shaping and I highly suggest it. This raises the back so the front neck area won’t be high on the throat.
Gauging sweater length as you knit is the biggest advantage of top down. Most knitters will say that a top-down pullover allows for trying on as you go. Also easier to lengthen sleeves and body, or make changes to the bottom ribbing. I mostly knit top-down sweaters.
Anatomy of a Bottom-up Sweater
When a sweater is knit from the bottom up, often the body directions are given first. Some knitters suggest knitting a sleeve first and using it as a way to measure the gauge.
You need to know your gauge before beginning any sweater, and it needs to match the designers gauge as closely as possible. Swatching is not a waste of time!!Keep the swatch, with notes for yarn type and needle size, for future reference. I’m not getting into finding gauge here, but you must do it.
Once the body and two sleeves have been knit from the bottom up, everything is combined so the yoke and neck can be knit together. A sleeve is knit, then the front / back, next sleeve, and across to the BOR (beginning of round).
When it comes to attaching the sleeves to the body, sometimes drawing out a visual image helps me. Here is a drawing I did when it came time to attach sleeves and body on the Farfuglar sweater, which is knit bottom up. Does this make any sense to you?? LOL
Be Careful of These Things
After getting a number of sweater knits under my belt, I can tell you what I would avoid knitting. As a beginner, skip any pattern that includes some sort of lace or texture (see my failed Oxbow Cardigan). Use a simple knit and purl pattern. It can be boring, but there will be opportunity for expanding your horizons with short rows, make-one’s, and ribbing. Boring, one-color sweaters can end up being the best wardrobe staple!
If you have not done stranded colorwork knitting, avoid it in a sweater. Brioche is not something I can do even at this point, so I don’t recommend it for beginners.
If you are part of Ravelry, and read reviews of knitters, they will often say a pattern was “easy” and “quick” but take into consideration that those reviewers may have been knitting for 30 years longer than you have! Don’t believe all the reviews, and sweaters are never “quick”.
Know your yarn. In my humble opinion sweaters should be knit using wool. Isn’t a sweater for keeping warm? Use a pure, decent wool – worsted weight or fingering – they are out there. AND once the sweater is washed, it can change dramatically from scratchy to wonderful.
Sweater Patterns For Beginners
Now that I have knit a few sweaters of various styles, I’d like to share some favorites with you. One is baby size and is perfect for expanding knitting knowledge.
I’ve linked the sweaters to my blog pages where you can find notes and links that go to the pattern buying pages.
Cobblestone – easy cardiganPlaydate: Small project for practiceCalliope – free pattern Fine Sand SweaterWarm Up Sweater – a Fave
Clockwise above
Top down cardigan – Cobblestone in blue. No button band to do (they are hard), it is knit right in. Good first cardigan pattern. Runs large. (Uses a worsted weight yarn.)
Bottom up baby cardigan – Playdate by Tin Can Knits (fingering) Loved the uniqueness of this pattern, and because it’s small, a good practice piece.
*The Calliope pullover is a free pattern from Espace Tricot. It has some texture around the neck, but is a straight-forward design. One of my favorite patterns.
Top down cardigan (dark blue) – Fine Sand Pattern directions were a bit weird to figure out and lots of new (for me) types of increases were made around the top for shaping. I considered myself a beginner knitter at the time, and knit this just fine. There are no buttons or button bands to pick up.
* Warm Up Sweater by Espace Tricot, is a free pattern and very easy to knit. It is a favorite pattern, and I wear the big comfy sweater (knit with Lettlopi wool – thicker yarn, quicker knit) all through our cooler Florida winter mornings.
Some info here on beginning the Rebel cardigan. This is a top down sweater with a very unique construction at the beginning, which sets up the remainder of the knitting.
The Rebel Cardigan has been on my list of “to knit” items for a few weeks now. I had to finish knitting the Field Sweater, which I did, and immediately cast on this new pattern. (Pattern link at the bottom of this page.)
I’ve never begun a sweater like this. It’s begun in small sections, putting stitches on hold, and then knitting in another direction. It honestly looks a little weird.
Picking up stitchesUnique way to begin a sweater
This will be a long-sleeve sweater with an open front and no buttons or button-band to knit separately. This greatly appeals to me! I love the look of it.
Getting Started
The yarn I chose is by Knitting For Olive. I’m holding two strands, merino and mohair, together. The colors are Pea Shoots and Dusty Artichoke.
I’m knitting the Rebel sweater size 4, using needles size 6US.
Pea Shoots and Dusty Artichoke colors by Knitting for Olive.
The Rebel Cardigan pattern is written very well. Schematics are included so we are sure to know exactly where to begin knitting each of the sections. This is very helpful.
While knitting, we are putting stitches on hold (waste yarn), picking up stitches from edges and from waste yarn. All this is forming the collar, back, and right and left front. Soon it will all come together and make more sense, I’m sure.
Below is my photo after all sections of the Rebel cardigan are attached. Now knitting is done back and forth – knitting on the right side and purling on the wrong side, while increases are made for the sleeves and the back / body.
All section attached
The sweater will end up with a wide 1×1 ribbing down both sides of the front. The sleeves and remainder of body are knit in smooth stockinette. It’s a pretty clever design. One reason for doing the knitting this way is to help keep the sweater sitting correctly on the shoulders, and not slipping off as some cardigans have a tendency to do.
If you are interested in knitting this unique sweater, I have provided a link to the pattern here, which goes to the designer’s Ravelry page.
New England's Narrow Road 