Tag: how to

Finish Knitting the Maine Cables Hat – Part 4

Here we are on the last steps of knitting the Maine Cables Hat. Your cables should be done and now we are decreasing and finishing the top.

If you have been knitting along with me, and creating the Maine Cables Hat, this is the last in the series. In Part 4 we will decrease and finish knitting the project.

After we knit all the normal rounds for making the cables (see part 3, or go back to the beginning if you are new here.), we come to the crown decreases. This can be the trickiest part of knitting a hat. The reason for this is that at some point our stitches will be too few to fit on the 16″ circular needle. We will have to switch to double-pointed needles (DPNs). (If you know how to use Magic Loop, and prefer it, feel free, but I don’t cover it here.)

I always try to keep my 16″ needle for as long as I can. But, once the stitches become too far spaced, we have to get the stitches onto those four DPNs.

Switching Over to DPNs

The crown decreases in the Maine Cables Hat begin in Round 9. We just finished knitting Rounds 1-8, five times.

Each round in 9-22 will be a little different, so follow the pattern. The last cable row will be Round 12. The others will require some k2tog and p2tog stitches.

purl two together
Purl two together – go through both purl stitches

When the time comes, divide the stitches up between four DPNs in the size that matches your original knitting needle. My needle is size 8, so my DPNs are size 8. DPNs come in sets of five needles. Four will hold stitches and one is used to knit with. (You can also do 3 needles for stitches.)

Removable stitch marker for rounds using double-pointed needles.
Use a removable stitch marker for the BOR when the double-pointed needles are used.

I like to make the switch to double-pointed needs at the beginning of an easy row. I am choosing Round 18 because I will be down to 55 stitches total (Small size hat). This round is made up of only knits and purls which makes the dividing easy. There are no decreases in this row.

Leave all the stitch markers as they were, except to switch out the BOR marker. Remove the original marker and place a removable stitch marker which is not on the needle but on the fabric. This way it will not be in the way on the needles, but will remind you of the row beginning.

Close-up of a person's hand holding yellow knitted fabric with wooden knitting needles, showing progress on a project, with a printed pattern in the background.
Changing to DPNs fro the crown of the Maine Cables Hat

For the Small size hat – 55 total stitches = 3 DPNs holding 14 stitches, and 1 DPN holding 13 stitches. You really don’t need to be exact. I try not to drop a stitch marker, but it is pretty easy to count the in-between stitches at this point.

For the large size hat – 60 stitches total = 4 DPNs each holding 15 stitches.

Continue to the End

The stitches on the 4 DPNs do not have to remain the same. As the decreases are made, switch to 3 DPNs, but keep the stitch markers until the last row (or next to last row). Remove them as you finish up with the k2tog stitches.

Removable stitch marker for rounds using double-pointed needles.
Removable stitch marker
Last stitches on three needles at the crown
Last stitches left – pull tail thru to finish

At Round 22 there will be either 11 or 12 stitches left on your DPNs. Now it is time to cut a long tail on your yarn, and get your embroidery needle.

Use the embroidery needle to go through all stitches twice – I like to do twice, but you don’t have to. Go around to the left, leaving the knitting needles in place, just as you would be knitting, and include all stitches. Pull them pretty tight, and then go through them again – while removing the needles, and pull to close up the top.

Stick the needle down through the top to the inside of the hat. This is where you will weave in that end. (Weaving in quick video here.)

Weave In The Loose Ends

All that is left to do is weave in the remaining loose ends.

Turn the hat inside out and weave in the yarn that is already on the needle. If you added new yarn, weave in that tail. Then, weave in the end that is hanging where we first cast on our stitches. *Remember how the brim will fold (or not fold) and weave in on the wrong side so the weave will not show.

Congratulations – Go Try On Your New Hat!

You are finished knitting the Maine Cable Hat! Congratulations on your new winter accessory that I’m sure is extraordinarily beautiful.

Now for the wash in Eucalan (paid link), which is a no-rinse wool wash. Only use it if you used wool yarn to knit your hat!

Washing my hat in wool wash

Add your photos to Ravelry, if you are on there, and add pictures to your social media accounts – if you like to do that. Please leave a comment on this blog and let me know how it went. I’d sincerely like to know! I’m guessing that other knitters would also like to know.

Did you find this pattern easy to follow? Did my notes help you? Are you happy with the size you chose? Will you make another hat like this one, or branch out and try another cable hat?

Bright yellow knitted beanie hat with a cable pattern, displayed on a textured white surface.
Maine Cables Hat finished
Leftover mohair and merino wool
Yarn leftover from knitting the Maine Cables Hat

Knitting My Hat – Review

I like how my hat came out, even though I messed up on the crown. Round 15 has a p2tog, which I completely missed! I added my p2tog’s on Round 18. Oh well, it happens.

I’m glad I knit the small size, but remember I also used a larger (size 8US) needle. The hat is nice and tall, so the brim can fold way up over the cable area.

I had plenty of yarn leftover from my one ball of mohair and two balls of heavy merino. It took me 9 days to finish the hat, and I was away camping for 3 of those days (not knitting). I could probably have finished it in about 3 or 4 days easily.

Hand knits take forever to dry in my house because of the extreme humidity, even with the AC going 24 hours a day, but finally it’s ready to pack for my trip north.

wearing the Maine Cables Hat in umami yellow wool yarn - Knitting for Olive merino and mohair.

This is what I love about knitting. I choose the yarn, the color, and the style. Within a few days, I have a new, warm and cozy, and completely unique, hat!

Stories about yarn and my knitting hobby.

Knitting the Cables on the Maine Cables Hat – Part 3

Part three of the knitting pattern Maine Cables Hat is all about making the cables. I can suggest an excellent cable needle that will make the knitting easier.

Now we are moving onto the third part of our cable hat project. The Maine Cables Hat is made up of cables all over the crown. We have finished the cast on and ribbing. We have finished the set up rows also (see Part 2 here), and are ready to knit the cables.

A cable is made by twisting stitches to the left or right. They will twist according to where those cable needle stitches are held – to the front, or back. This is the purpose of using an extra needle, or cable needle, some of the stitches will be slipped and ignored until we knit from the normal row of stitches. The stitches we slipped onto the cable needle will be knit after.

Our Maine Cables Hat pattern lists the cable section as Rounds 1-8. We have to repeat all those rounds five times. Mainly we are knitting and doing a couple of purls on most of the rounds. But, rounds 4 and 8 are where we make the cables.

Making the 3/3LC Cables in Round 4

In the Maine Cables pattern we first make a 3/3LC in round four of the top of the hat. This stitch is explained in the Abbreviations & Techniques section of the pattern. But, I will go over it here.

For the 3/ 3 LC: Three stitches are slipped purl-wise onto the cable needle and are held in front of our work (#1 photo below). The next 3 stitches are knit while we ignore the cable needle (#2 photo below). Next, the three stitches on the cable needle are knit (#3 photo below). This twists the stitches to the left – LC = left-leaning cable.

knitting a cable holding three stitches to the front
Making a cable stitch by knitting behind the cable.
Finish knitting the cable stitch by knitting off the cable needle.

Making the 3/3RC Cables in Round 8

The other cable stitch is 3/3RC meaning “right leaning cable”. It also uses three stitches on the cable needle but they will be held to the back of the work.

Below I am knitting the 3/3RC cable row. The 3 stitches on my little cable needle are held behind the normal knitting. Then, I knit the next three stitches, ignoring the cable needle. Last, I knit the 3 stitches from the cable needle. The RC makes a right-leaning cable. *Very Pink Knits has a quick video about knitting this exact 3/3RC cable. (I think she is using the Brittany cable needle – see below.)

Knitting the right leaning cable on Maine Cables hat
Close-up of a hand holding knitting needles with yellow yarn, focusing on the stitches being worked.

Get a Good Cable Needle

If cable knitting seems daunting, remember that many rows are simply knits and purls, while the cable rows only show up twice in eight rounds (for this pattern). You can do it!

Making a cable stitch is not difficult but it can be a little wonky feeling. Here is what I have found will help the most. Use a wooden needle so the held stitches won’t slip! This is so important for keeping your sanity.

I used to use some old, metal cable stitch holders that were my grandmothers, but the stitches would slip off and really annoy me. The old needle was also long and would get in my way. I’ve tried many styles of cable needles and hated them all – with stitches slipping off completely, or slipping when trying to knit back onto the normal needle.

When I heard about the Brittany brand, wood cable needles, I got some. It was love. I’m no longer afraid of cables making me crazy.

Buy Brittany cable needles image with text

A cable needle does not need to be the same size as your knitting needle, just close. Too thin and the stitches will easily slide off. Too tight and it will be hard to knit them. The wooden needles by Brittany come in three sizes which can be used for many knitting needle sizes.

Here Come the Cables!

After finished the first round of of the hat crown – rows 1-8 – This is what we have (photo below). As we work the remaining rows the cables will grow.

I’m on my last set of rounds for the cables (photo below right).

How each of the cable rows make the stitches lean right and left.
Maine Cables hat part 3 - knitting the cables

I will be writing the last blog post (Part 4) about knitting the Maine Cables Hat next. We will cover the decreases at the crown, weaving in the ends, and trying our new hat on!

Keep knitting friends! I’d love to hear how it’s going.

knitting needles image - divider

Extra Info

Examples of What We Can Do With Cables

This hat pattern (Maine Cables Hat – get the FREE pattern here) has very simple cables. But they will make this hat look so nice. Cables can do that. And cables can create some very fun designs on all kinds of projects.

I have a cabled cardigan in my knitting queue – the Bookclub Cardigan, by Sari Nordlund. I know it will take all my concentration and dedication to finish, so I need to wait until the right time – but it is so beautiful, and I want a cabled sweater.

Many years ago I found the Norrland hat pattern. At the time, I’m sure it was too difficult for me. This unique pattern is knit in two colors, with cables and colorwork combined. The hat looks like branching trees going up to the crown! It is really stunning, and I think I should knit it soon!

The Skiff Hat by Jared Flood is the most intricate cabling I have done. I had to go through the knitting chart and color code everything to keep the cables straight. I’ve knit that hat a couple of times and plan to knit it again one day. It does tend to come out large as I remember.

Cable Hats I Have Knit

Here are some other cabled hats I’ve finished. Both Habitat and Skiff, by Jared Flood, have intricate, entwined cables. If you want to knit a hat like this, see my notes at the hat links below. It’s one row at a time, and before you know it, you have a beautiful new hat that will amaze everyone!

Skiff hand knit beanie with cables
Skiff beanie in gray
Skiff Hat with cables
Skiff in blue
Cabled beanie in bright orange Habitat pattern
Habitat Hat
divider sweaters on lion, koala, and tiger

Keep reading more knitting stories…

How to Add the Tassel to The Doublemassa Hat

How to make a tassel for a knitted hat. Finding a way to attach the tassel to a lined hat with no underside access.

Making a tassel is not difficult, and I was looking forward to making the one for my Doublemassa. But there was a problem. How is a tassel added to this type of knitting project?

I have now assembled the tassel (and it’s far from perfect looking). But, my big problem is how to add it to this hat. Ordinarily, when finishing up a hat, you have an underneath, or wrong side, where the yarns are pulled through and tied off under the crown. The Doublemassa is knit in a way that the underneath can’t be accessed. It is completely closed up. The pattern is no help.

Tassel Making Video

It was hard to envision tassel making in the Hat’s On book where the Doublemassa pattern is found. This video on YouTube was very helpful. However, I still must figure out how to add the tassel to my finished hat.

One of the Doublemassa knitters mentioned opening up the top of the hat and making a big knot to tuck through. Then, she closed up the top again. I ended up doing this, but a little differently.

My Tassel

I wrapped both yarn colors 60 times around a six inch cardboard. I tied two strands of yarn around the top and then braided the 4 strands. I wish I’d used more strands for this.

Next I wrapped the blue yarn around the tassel.

wrapping blue and white yarn for making a tassel
Wrapping yarn
Braided cord for tassel
Making braid
making tassel
tassel making
Wrapping the tassel
Tassel made and trimmed
Tassel finished

I do not have a bodkin (Amazon paid link), which is a special flat “needle” which is used by the woman in the video. My larger sized embroidery needle worked fine. This is used to wrap the tassel and tuck the yarn down inside.

After my washed hat was dried, I noticed that two stitches at the very top were loose and not bound off! Somehow they did not unravel (wool is so awesome). It left a small opening.

attaching a tassel
Two loose stitches!
hat tassel attached to Doublemassa
Attached

Adding the tassel was a challenge, but I simply did as one of the other knitters mentioned. I made a big knot and pushed it through the top. My dropped stitches mistake turned out to be the thing that saved me. Then I used the two yarns, one blue and one off-white, to close up the top tightly. I wove the ends down through the hat and cut the yarn.

A Better Way to Attach The Tassel

Now that I have done it, I feel lucky that it worked out. And I know that there is a better way to achieve this. The pattern simply says make a tassel and attach it – which is very unhelpful.

My advice is this: When knitting the last rounds of the crown, do NOT close up the top of the hat. Leave a tail and tuck one tail down inside the hat. Put the open stitches onto plastic holders, or waste yarn, for washing.

Make the tassel and wash the hat.

Once the hat is washed and dried, open the top and tuck the knotted end of the tassel braid down into the hat. Use the remaining yarn tail to close up the top.

Alternatives

A few of the Doublemassa hat knitters decided to begin knitting the hat with the colorwork. By using a provisional cast on, the lining of the hat could be knit last. This would do away with the need to begin the hat with a tiny disappearing loop cast on, and magic loop knitting.

It also makes adding the tassel easier. Then, the tassel would be washed along with the hat. I’m not sure how that would work. It could take a while for a tassel to dry.

Have you knit this hat, or one like it? Do you have ideas about adding the tassel?

More knitting stories…

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Knitting a First Sweater, Warnings, Ideas and Suggestions

Want to know more about knitting a first sweater? I have some advice for beginner sweater knitters, as well as pattern suggestions.

After fiddling around with dishcloths, hats and scarves for a while, and getting basic stitches learned, I needed a bigger knitting project. I yearned to make a sweater just like all those pretty knitted sweaters I was seeing everywhere online.

I tried to find out as much information as I could before choosing the pattern. I read blogs, Ravelry pattern reviews, and visited the forums, but I still felt indecisive. What type should I choose? A top down, or bottom up? Cardigan or pullover? Plain or colorwork? I had done a bit of colorwork and liked it. A cardigan seemed like too much to handle with button bands, buttonholes and buttons! So, I chose a bottom-up pullover with some colorwork at the top by a designer I’d seen mentioned quite a bit, and bought the Umpqua sweater pattern by Caitlin Hunter.

Continue reading “Knitting a First Sweater, Warnings, Ideas and Suggestions”