Fun Little Scarves For Everyone to Knit

Three little scarf patterns to knit with cashmere or other soft yarn. These are quick knits, and might be perfect practice for beginner knitters.

Here I am sharing some fun and cute scarf patterns that have recently caught my eye. These patterns seem easy enough for a beginner, if you’ve had some knitting practice, but want to branch out.

If you have mastered casting on and basic knits and purls, choose Sophie. If you can follow knitting and purling by sight to accomplish ribbing, choose Alex. The third scarf, called Scarf No. 4, seems a bit harder, but not much.

The thing about knitting a little scarf, is having a finished project fast. These are not your regular, long rectangle shapes. Each of the scarves on this page are much smaller, and take less yarn to complete. Consider a specialty, soft Cashmere yarn. I have some listed on this page.

Scarf Preview

I’ve begun knitting two of the three scarves listed on this page.

knitting the Sophie Scarf in white yarn
Sophie Scarf garter stitch
Knitting the Alex Scarf
Alex Scarf 2×2 ribbing

I’ve begun knitting two of them, Sophie and Alex. That way I can give you first hand accounts of what I think. If you are somewhat of a beginner knitter, I believe you could knit them all. In fact, they would be good practice.

Scarf Style

The patterns are knit from one end to the other. They begin with a cast on and expand to the center width. Then they decrease for the other side. To use up one skein, use the weighing method.

Weighing Method

If you have one skein to use, it should have double the length needed (and then some). Begin by weighing the yarn. This step is crucial if it’s very close to the amount of yarn needed. Find the mid point of the pattern, and begin decreasing when you are just less than halfway through your skein. How do you know? Buy a scale that shows grams and ounces (Amazon paid link). Weigh the skein before you begin, and then along the way.

Choosing Yarn

The patterns on this page are for small scarves. They take one or two smaller skeins of yarn. (Please go to each pattern’s page – I provide links – for more information on yarn needed.) Cashmere, or a cashmere combo, is recommended by all three designers, but any soft yarn would work. These scarves will be wrapped right against the neck, like a fun little accessory. Choose a yarn that will be soft and comfortable right on your skin.

Percentages next to yarn names below are for Merino wool to Cashmere in the yarn. Read this page for information about the reason for combining the two yarns. In short, it is for sturdiness.

Yarn Amounts

Check each pattern for yardage needed for your type of yarn and needle size. In my list below I have tried to figure, in general, yarn amounts needed for the longer scarves.

  • Sophie: Size L: 40 inches = 140 yards needed. (Small size takes 101+ yards.)
  • Alex: Size M: 49 inches = 273 yard ball listed. (219 yards on project page.) BUT this changes according to yarn weight and needle used!
  • Scarf #4: One size: 49 inches = 219 yards (or more) of yarn total.

Honestly, all three scarves gave me a headache while trying to figure out how much yarn I needed for each. “Alex” lists grams and yards, but uses three different weights and needle sizes for each of the three scarves. “Sophie” says 35g. needed of Compatable Cashmere @ 25g. balls. (so 2 are needed, if I use this specific yarn). “Scarf No.4” lists everything in grams and meters and I had to figure the yards.

We all knit a little differently. Also, remember that if you prefer a longer scarf, the yardage will be more. It is always better to have a little more yarn than needed.

Prices are listed here, but remember that they will no doubt change over time. I’ve listed them to give you an idea of the cost of knitting with a special – in this case Cashmere – yarn. Please note that when I purchased some of these Cashmere yarns, the skeins weighed in at less.

  • Lang Yarn Cashmere Premium – 100% Cashmere with chainette construction for holding shape. -Around $28 per skein for 125 yards. (two skeins needed for longer scarf) – save 10% at WoolandCompany on $100 or more & they have free shipping in the US ❤️ for all orders. * I ordered some of this and the 25 gram ball weighs in at 23 grams.
  • Pascuali Cashmere Charis 70%/30% Mongolian Cashmere– cost around $30 for 122 yards (50g.) – you need 2 for the longer scarves – More for Alex. *My balls each weigh 48 grams, not 50.
  • Purl Soho Cashmere Merino Bloom 75%/25% – Present cost is $43 for 218 yards (Ravelry users say it pills.)
  • Myak Tibetan Cashmere – 100% Tibetan goats, supports herders of the Tibetan Plateau – $47 for 128 yards.
  • Clinton Hill Cashmere – 100% Italian Cashmere – $52 for 125 yards.
ball of yarn divider

1. Casting On For The “Alex Scarf”

The Alex Scarf (link to pattern below) is a pattern by Pernille Larson, aka Knitting for Olive. This is her page at Ravelry. The business is run by her and her daughter. They sell yarn that is not mulesed (look that up). They use only pure natural fibers. They also create really lovely patterns of all kinds, and have lots of knitting patterns for babies and children.

I thought that some new Knitting for Olive yarn would be nice to have. I wanted to make the scarf with their Merino held with Cashmere. Then I looked in my spare bedroom at all the yarn just sitting there….. I passed on the new order (boo hoo)and chose to use up some old Miss Babs yarns.

From my stash I chose a dark brown-green “Lobster Legs” colorway, in Superwash. The skein contains 400 yards, which is plenty for the Medium size scarf. I also have some green mohair to use up, so I combined the two. The color was nice, and the pattern is great. But as I knit on, I am wondering if the Mohair will be too scratchy.

One ball of Knitting For Olive Merino with 273 yards, held with 2 balls of KFO Cashmere is suggested.

Mohair is not really a good choice when something is worn near the skin. I’m not super sensitive to wool, but mohair – especially certain types of mohair – can be itchy and uncomfortable. This scarf is turning out to feel that way, so I may not continue with this yarn. I do love the pattern.

The Alex Scarf pattern can be purchased at Ravelry. The pattern includes three sizes and various yarn weight options. Only Knitting for Olive yarns and amounts are used in the yarn section. One ball of KFO merino is 273 yds. Only one ball is used for the Medium size scarf.

ball of yarn divider

2. The “Sophie Scarf” by PetiteKnit

The Sophie Scarf (Ravelry pattern page) is everywhere it seems! According to the pattern page, 25,000+ knitters are knitting, or have knit, this scarf. It’s a cute, and easy, pattern that takes DK yarn. Size 4 needles are suggested, and the pattern is for 2 lengths. It is done in garter stitch (knitting back and forth) with I-cord edges. The designer gives it a 2 of 5 difficulty rating. Knitting this scarf is addictive!

You will need to: Knit front and back for increases, and manage the decrease stitches. This is not difficult. The edging is I-cord, which is also easy. As you knit along, the edge is created. Keep good track of the rows when you begin so know when to increase and decrease. Those should all be made along the same edge. Use a marker to designate the “front” of the work.

The Sophie Scarf pattern offers two sizes. I am knitting the longer version. The shorter scarf will come around from the back and tie in the front, more like an accessory, or accent. The longer version will wrap twice for warmth.

To show you the scarf as it is knit, I cast on using some stash yarn. This is Lorna’s Laces Solemate, and it is a very soft, machine washable merino, nylon and Outlast. I believe it is fingering weight, and I am holding it double. I went up to a size 5 needle. I really want to use up this yarn.

knitting the Sophie Scarf in white yarn
Sophie in white, 2 strands held together
Sophie scarf in dark green cashmere yarn
Lang Yarn, Cashmere Premium in color Olive Melange
ball of yarn divider

3. Pattern For “Scarf No. 4”

The third scarf, from “My Favorite Things knitwear” is named Scarf No. 4. It is also knit from end to end like the others. It is a long, triangle shape with a textured pattern. I have not knit this one.

Knitting Scarf No. 4 in textured pattern
Nice texture using simple stitches

Yarn needed is approx. 219 yards DK weight.

Yarn suggestions for this scarf are pretty much the same as the others. The cashmere mentioned is Lang Cashmere Premium, Compatible Cashmere lace (use two strands together). Or search for yarn that contains cashmere along with merino, silk, or other soft fibers.

This scarf has a different type of edging called “distitch”. It is not difficult to do. There is a YouTube video link included with the pattern. When I search “distitch edging” then I can see it here.

Scarf No. 4 is written for one size. Approximate length will be 49 inches. Yarn amounts are listed in grams and meters, but on the Ravelry page I see 219 yards.

Skills to know are yarn overs, knitting through the back loop, increases and decreases and distitch edging. Also knitting and purling in pattern. The directions seem easy to understand. When you see “est” in the pattern it means “edge stitches”. This is explained, but I missed it at first.

The Three Scarves Links List

In closing, I’m adding the links to all three scarves once more. Each link goes to the Ravelry page where the pattern is for sale. Also, find more information from the designer about yarn ideas and amount needed. Read reviews by knitters, and find out what types of yarn they used.

My goal is to use up some nice yarn in my stash. Have only one skein? See if you can use it to knit a comfy and usable neck warmer. These fun, cute projects make excellent take-along, travel knits. They are perfect for gift giving to special people too.

yarn ball divider

More projects for around the neck warmth

My Favorite Hand Knits Finished in 2024

Last year, in 2024, I completed three sweater patterns that I absolutely love.

During 2024 there were a few hand knits that have become my favorites. I knit four sweater patterns and a couple of hats. The hats are not worth mentioning. Three of the sweaters turned out to be favorite knits of mine. The links go to my pattern review blog pages.

Calliope 2

The Calliope pullover is so nice. This was my second time using this pattern. I love the gold color and the yarn makes a really nice fabric. It was my first time using Sunday Morning yarn by Sonder Yarn Co. and I ended up loving the result. I did make some pattern changes on the sleeves and hem.

Rebel Cardigan

This cardigan pattern by Ankestrick is definitely a favorite. I finished knitting the beautiful sweater in August. Once the weather turned cool in November (a few days at least) I pulled it out. I’ve been wearing it all winter. The Rebel Cardigan is very cozy and warm.

The Field Sweater

When it came to the Field sweater, I loved the look, but was unsure I could accomplish it. This was probably the most difficult pattern I have knit so far. The whole yoke was made up of special stitches that took a lot of time to complete. It turned out so lovely and it is a sweater I am proud of. The fit is perfect.

New Techniques and New Yarns

In 2024 I knit two sweaters that used double yarns. I held mohair with merino for the Rebel cardigan and Field sweater. I also learned some new techniques and met some challenges. Each of these sweaters took a while to finish.

I did knit one other sweater called the Autumn Alpine. I am not super happy with it. The neckline wasn’t good, and I tried to fix it, without much luck. I ended up doing short sleeves just to be finished. I’ve never worn it.

Sweaters begun in 2024

The sweaters I have on my needles now, that were begun in 2024, are as follows. The links to my Ravelry pages for each. These sweaters should be finished in 2025.

  • Warm Up 2 – Knit using bulky Peace Fleece
  • Solvi – Bright blue yarn from Harriville Designs
  • Birthday61 – Size 1 needle, half-fisherman’s rib. A long project.

How did your knitting go in 2024? Have you made anything special, or learned any new knitting techniques? Maybe you have knit these same sweater patterns. I’d love to hear about what you made.

Knitting the Cozy Dual Loop Beanie

Beginning to knit the deal loop beanie pattern in heavy wool.

After knitting sweaters for a while, I decided to try a smaller project. The Dual Loop Beanie, by Other Loops, looked like a nice hat. (Pattern link below.) I purchased the pattern and began the project. Yup, one more knitting project on the needles!

Here it is all finished, but still needing a soak. Read on and make one of your own.

dual loop beanie
Dual Loop Beanie knit using Plotulopi wool

The Pattern

The pattern is easy to follow. One thing to be aware of is you will always be following the 2×2 rib for the top part. One line in the directions says, “knit to two stitches before the next marker” but it should be knit and purl.

Also, a thumbs down for this pattern is the fact that the needle size is listed ONLY in mm and size / length is ONLY in cm. For those of us in the US we have to convert. It’s not a big deal, but most patterns do list both.

The beginning directions are for a tubular cast on. If you don’t know how to do it, then you must look it up (I have a video link below). There are no directions or links in the pattern. There are no other cast on options listed either. But, if you feel more comfortable using a long tail, or other cast on, go for it!

Stitches / Techniques to Know

  • Tubular cast on & join (see below)
  • K2tog – knit 2 together
  • P2tog – purl 2 together
  • P2togtbl – purl 2 together through the back loop
  • SSK – slip, slip, knit (or left leaning decrease)

The Cast On and Set Up Rows

I am not a fan of doing the tubular cast on. Many ribbed hats use it to make the edge rounded. And, it does look nice. The cast on is not difficult, BUT keeping the stitches straight gives me a headache. To solve this problem, I used a straight needle this time. A wooden straight needle would be perfect, but I only had my grandmother’s old steel needles. They worked fine.

straight needles and Alafosslopi yarn
tubular cast on onto straight needle

If you are wondering why I would cast on for a hat using a straight needle, here’s the answer. The tubular cast on is worked in back and forth rows called the “set up” rows. Once those are done, then the round is joined.

The pattern begins with, “cast on using a tubular cast on in rib stitch”. My help for this came from Stephen West’s video. I followed his cast on directions. Also his first set up row directions (he knits through the back loop on the first row). At his suggestion, I used one needle size smaller (size 3US) for this part of the project.

After finishing the cast on and set up rows, I slipped all of the stitches onto a size 4 circular needle (the main size). Then, I made the join by simply continuing in pattern. I will have to close up that gap when I weave in the ends. *I had no trouble closing the gap and it looks perfect.

Ready to join the cast on to knit round and round.
Stitches transferred to circular needle size 4.

Now I am working using the main yarn, which is Plotulopi unspun held double. I’m pulling a strand from each of two cakes. But to cast on and begin with set up rows, I used dark green-brown Alafosslopi. It is sturdier and I needed something to make that cast on as easy as possible. Both yarns came from my stash.

Because I couldn’t fit more stitches on the straight needle, I cast on for the small size hat. This yarn is thick and the hat size is perfect.

Dual loop beanie

The Dual Loop Beanie is pretty much a basic hat pattern. Once I was beyond the cast on, it’s round and round knits and purls. The decreases for the top are well written out and I’m looking forward to the end result.

Dual loop beanie hat knitting project using Icelandic wool.
Just beginning the decrease rounds on my Dual Loop beanie. Isn’t that yarn pretty!

The beanie is nearly ready to wear. Just needs a soak and then drying out. I had a lot of trouble with this yarn at the top. Unspun yarn like this Plotulopi can’t stand any stress or it comes apart like cotton candy. Fortunately it can be spit-spliced easily. If you prefer a very tall point at the top – add more rows. I followed the directions and mine is not all that tall.

dual loop beanie
dual loop beanie
dual loop beanie in plotulopi wool

Here in central Florida we are certainly not suffering with horrid freezing temperatures like most of the county. We have had a cold, gloomy January. For the past week or so temps have been in the 40’s and 50’s for highs, with wind chills lower. I can hear you… “Oh poor baby” “Those Florida wussies” I know, I know… I’m not whining, just saying it is unusual. And it has given me lots of opportunities to wear my hand knits, so I’m happy. It snowed in the Panhandle, and I hope next time the snow comes here. I love snow.

More posts about hats.

Tips For Beginning the Birthday61 Sweater Project

I’ve begun knitting the Birthday61 sweater pattern in half-fisherman’s rib. Here is my review with advice and tips for beginning this knitting project.

The Birthday61 sweater is a one-color pullover that is knit in half-fisherman’s rib. The yarn suggestion is fine fingering. My swatch is done and I have begun the project.

I sometimes get questions from readers related to a pattern. So I want to supply as much information now as possible NOW when the pattern is fresh in my mind. Five years from now (or even 5 months), I will have forgotten what I did.

Answering Your Questions About the Pattern

First I want to emphasize that Ankestrick has a forum at Ravelry that is especially for help knitting her patterns. That is where you should ask pattern questions! Begin on this page (sign into Ravelry to view) and search for your pattern alphabetically. Every pattern, by Ankestrick, is listed, so find the one you are working on, and ask the question there. I had a question about knitting the swatch, and I received a fast reply.

I am writing this blog post to help you knit this project. However, by the time you read this, I may have completed this sweater long ago. I will most likely not remember how to answer your question. Use the Ravelry forum for best results.

Also, Anke has a list of Special Techniques for her patterns. I watched her video for casting on and followed it without much of a problem. Although, the knits and purls tend to curl up and look bad, I managed to get through it.

Beginning the Pattern, the Cast On

I did Anke’s cast-on and row 1, which is the set up row, using a size 0 needle. (See her techniques link above.)

On Row 2, I switched to my main size 1 needle (16″ circular). I’m not sure this is necessary, and the designer does not suggest it. But the cast-on is like the Italian tubular where a smaller needle is used first. *Also, be sure that join looks good. It will be prominent in the middle front of the sweater neck.

Yoke markers and short rows could be confusing for some knitters. The directions are excellent. The designer provides a diagram for the placement of the stitch markers. This is very helpful for knitting the short rows.

To help keep things straight, I used various colored stitch markers. The colors designate a different section. The front (pink) and back (black) and sleeves (green-blue) – will get the increases. All of those sections are separated by a raglan section which will not be increased.

The color coding helped me a lot to visualize which part of the sweater I was knitting. Be sure the BOR marker is easy to see – make it different (I used a seahorse).

Birthday61 sweater cast on
Marker placement – BEFORE the yarn break for Birthday61

To begin with, the beginning of the round is in the front. Then, later we move it to the back.

Dealing With Knitting Mistakes

I picked up the project to get a new picture for this post and found a BIG FAT MISTAKE! It was staring me in the face, and is very obvious. It is a few rows back and I will not be trying to fix it. It is in a raglan section and I knit the whole section incorrectly. But I occasionally have small mistakes to fix.

I can’t believe I already have a mistake, but it won’t be the last. I only hope that my goofs won’t be too noticeable once the sweater is complete.

Missed the Increase? Here’s what to do.

This brings me to another issue I had. How do I fix, or rip back, a half-fisherman’s rib stitch? It’s tricky. It is helpful to use a tiny crochet hook. When you un-knit the stitch, it will leave 2 strands on your needle. One must be pulled through under the other and put back onto the left needle.

This happens to me when I am on an increase round and I forget to do the increase at the beginning, or end, of the section. I’ve already begun a new section when I remember I should have made the increase. I will only rip back a few stitches at most. If I am far ahead, I simply make up the increase later.

1. Ripping back Fisherman’s Rib – I’m not sure why she has 3 strands to deal with except that it’s not “half” fisherman’s rib. She is knitting the same rib on both sides of her work. We are knitting into the loop below on every other round for this sweater, which is called half fisherman’s rib. To fix a stitch we still have to pull a stitch under the other one.

2. Here is a video about fixing a mistake in half fisherman’s rib when the mistake is many rows back. It’s a little intimidating to me. Some of you may find it helpful.

*Be sure to count your stitches in each front, back and sleeve section and make sure they match up to the pattern. This helps point out missed increases.

Where I’m at on this Project Today

After many hours of knitting, I am still finishing the yoke. I have not separated for the sleeves yet. I’m measuring lengths to be sure the yoke does not get too long. For my size, the yoke length should be 9 inches and I’m nearly there.

knitting Birthday61 sweater
Progress on Birthday61

And then this…

It is mid January and I have separated the body and sleeves. I added waste yarn the same way I always do – with two strands. It went fine.

I’ll have to add a few increases as I begin the body because my counts were off. The yoke was getting long and I skipped a few rounds before the separation. I have 115 for back and front. It should be 123 for my size. I need to add 8 stitches to each – front and back. I’m not worried about the missing 2 stitches for each sleeve.

knitting sweater sleeve and body separation
Sleeves and body separated

I am loving the yarn. The light color makes knitting easy.

More sweater knitting posts