Pam – Page 54 – New England's Narrow Road

Knitting (Nope) the Complicated Oxbow Cardigan

I had informally decided to give sweater knitting a break, along with shawl knitting. Then I changed my mind when I saw the Oxbow Cardigan pattern.

The pattern is by Andrea Mowry of Drea Renee Knits and I have never knit any of her patterns although she is everywhere and is very popular with knitters. She seems to have patterns that are above my skill level (this one has only reinforced my belief), but it looked simple enough, with big yarn and big needles. Heck, she made them for the whole family!

Ha! Fooled again…..I have not found this project to be easy at all AND spoiler alert – I frogged it (ripped it out to save the yarn) on April 28th. I feel very good about that too.

How It All Began – My History With This Project

The yarn is bulky so I figured knitting the sweater would be quick. In fact I finished ONE Oxbow sleeve in two days, but man did I struggle, and it didn’t look all that great. But I learned from my efforts and the second sleeve went better.

The Yarn

Brooklyn Tweed Quarry yarn in color Geode — Brooklyn Tweed yarn in color “Geode”

I am using Brooklyn Tweed Quarry in “Geode”, which is a gray-lavender color. My first impression with Quarry yarn was a year or so ago when I bought dark colors to knit warm hats for my kids. As I tried to cast-on, the yarn suddenly came apart! I was very unhappy. I’ve since used this same yarn to knit a hat and have had better luck. I think I just came across a weak section of yarn and didn’t know how to deal with it. It cannot be pulled tightly, so you do have to take care and twist the strand if necessary.

Quarry yarn is bulky, yet very light weight – surprisingly so. Because of this it dries quickly when hand washed (don’t put it in the washer or dryer) and will not weigh you down as a garment. I bought mine at Wool & Company, and they wound all 7 skeins for free! (US shipping is free too, for any order!)

I was interested in this yarn because it is spun in Harrisville, New Hampshire, near where I used to live! The wool comes from Wyoming ?, is spun in NH, and then dyed in another part of the US, so it is totally American made.

trying on the Oxbow sweater sleeve as I knit — Oxbow sleeve knitting in progress

Knitting the Oxbow Sleeves

This is only my third sweater knitting project, (see Fine Sand and Umpqua) if you don’t count the little Popover for a child (I didn’t like that one either). So I am nowhere near being a sweater-knitting expert.

My first mistake was at the beginning, when I used the larger needles to cast on and knit the ribbing. I was supposed to use the smaller size.

Because my gauge swatch was telling me to go up a needle size, and I couldn’t find (and didn’t really want) larger needles, I decided to knit the sweater one size larger. Is that a good idea? I don’t know.

So I began my sleeve. Once the increases happened I got confused. Other knitters had questions too. I know because I saw them on Ravelry. As I knit along trying to figure out what to do with the pattern as the increases were made, I finally figured it out, but not before I made the underside of the sleeve look icky.

knitting the sleeve notes on Oxbow sweater — Making increases on the sleeves

Figuring Out The Sleeve Increases

This information may help you, if you decide to try this pattern. The problem arises when you come to the increase rows.

I added markers to show where the increase area was. The orange marker shows the BOR. Each time I would work a round I would count backwards – in pattern – from the original beginning (where I also placed a marker) to start the pattern from the BOR. Nothing in the directions advises this! You have to wing it.

I didn’t figure this out for a while, so my underarm of the sleeve is a bit messed up. This part will be towards my body and not easily seen. (The pattern simply says to make increases and knit in pattern. Ya, the directions are not impressive.) I did do better on sleeve #2.

finished sleeve — Mistakes are apparent on the underside of my first sleeve

Sleeves Get Long!

My sleeve also began to get really long before I was done with making my increases! So I decided to go back and follow the next smaller size directions. If I had tried to get all the increases made my sleeves would have been way too long! (I saw comments on this same problem from other knitters). As it is, the sleeve is still a little longer, which is always better than too short!

Finished sleeve knitting for Oxbox — One sleeve finished

The Oxbow repeat pattern is nice and makes a fluffy texture, but it’s not all that easy to follow. It’s an easy enough pattern with 2 row repeats, it’s just not easy to keep track of the rows. What I did was use the orange clip marker to give me reference for inches (length) and then I could pay attention to the pattern better.

On To the Body and Decreases

Now I have knit the body of the Oxbow sweater to the decrease section. Wow, all I can say is really read through all the info before you begin. Basically it comes down to knitting in the pattern, but adding decreases at each end of the row (every so many rows, depending on size).

I am knitting the size “Women 42” for a good bit of ease. Once I got to the body and neck and yoke decreases, I faltered. I set the sweater aside until I could concentrate and really figure out what to do. THIS IS NOT AN EASY KNIT! Also not something to set aside for long in fear I will forget what I was doing and have to re-read it all again!

The directions are not easy to understand and I can only hope I will finish this and have it be wearable. The designer talks like this is the simplest sweater ever to make ….. and gee, why not whip one up for every family member? NOT! If I get through this one, I doubt I will ever make another. I’m just being honest here, whereas I have my doubts about some reviews I’ve read.

Knitting the Oxbow cardigan sweater — Knitting progress on the Oxbow

For now, this sweater is on hold. I’m partway done with the body and have two sleeves completed. I do plan to finish it, but currently I’m on a mitten-knitting kick. So I’m publishing this post and will update it when I finally finish this hellish sweater knitting project.

Oxbow Frogging Complete!

Every time I would pass by the knitting bag holding the Oxbow sweater, I would feel pressure to get working on it. But I didn’t want to. When I did get it out, I had difficulty finding where the heck I was in the pattern. I was at a decrease every 5 rows, while doing the 4 row repeat with knits and purls done at such and such and P2tog or SSK done at here and here…. Just reading it was mind boggling. Sorry, but I think it was a very lazy way to write a pattern.

I contemplated all my work – 2 sleeves done and about halfway up the body. But tearing it out made me feel calmer than pressing onward. So I frogged it. Now I have tons of Quarry yarn and must find another sweater to knit. (Eventually I knit one by Espace Tricot). But today I feel good, and will no longer see this sweater sitting around driving me crazy!

Lots of Changes This Year

Writing a blog, sharing photos, and doing research and making links takes time. Lately I don’t think the time spent doing all that is worth enough to continue. I have stopped writing my gardening blog, and downgraded my seashells/ boating / camping blog. I’ve been spread too thin for too long. The past 18 years…

by Pam 02/28/2026

Knitters and Our Many Projects

How many projects do you have on your needles? It is not uncommon to find that fellow knitters have many things going at once.

by Pam 01/04/2026

Happy New Year 2026 and Time to Cast On

A new year means a brand new knitting project to begin. What will you be making?

by Pam 01/01/202612/31/2025

The Kitchener Stitch For Socks, Mittens and More

There is a lot more to knitting than picking up a pair of needles and choosing a pretty yarn. If you have done any amount of knitting yourself you will understand. I have learned a lot as I’ve knit various projects over the past year and a half.

One aspect of knitting you will undoubtedly come across if you knit mittens, socks or even sweaters, is the Kitchener stitch. It is usually done with a tapestry needle to either close up a mitten top (see below), sock toe, or stitch something together seamlessly. (See my Playdate Cardigan page also where I used this stitch on shoulder seams.)

Kitchener stitch at top of mittens — Glissade mittens

Basics of the Kitchener: End your knitting with even number of stitches on each of 2 needles. Do a set up stitch, and then begin the Kitchener. It weaves both sides of the project together without making a seam. If you look at my mitten tops, it appears that my stitches flow over the very top of the mitten like magic!

I have not done the Kitchener stitch often, but there is a good YouTube video by Very Pink Knits which has helped me to understand it better. She has a little mantra she says while stitching. She shows it on a sock toe, in slow motion, which is very helpful!

My Glissade mitten tops look pretty good, if I do say so myself. When I first tried this stitch, I practiced on something that didn’t matter.

At first, this stitch drove me nuts. I really hated it, but after practicing, it’s really not that bad. I just have to go slow and pay attention. A lot of videos don’t tell you what to do with the last two stitches, but this video does.

Now, whenever I have a pattern that calls for this stitch, I write that little saying on the pattern itself so I don’t have to go look up the video when it’s time to do the Kitchener.

Silver and Gold Mitten in Stranded Colorwork

After beginning The Woolly Thistle mitten knitalong with one mitten pattern, I came across a new pattern for sale that I liked a lot better.

I finished on mitten in my first choice (Milet) and then started this one which is called “Glissade” and you can buy the pattern and download it at Ravelry – I have a link further down the page. I have finished one mitten, and I do love this pattern! Read on…

Arbor yarn mitten knitting project — Brooklyn Tweed Arbor yarn is pretty nice

I wanted to use the same DK yarn the designer used, but it was out of stock, so I began looking for other DK yarn to use.

One thing I want to do this year with my knitting projects is to use new types of yarn. I’ve already fallen in love with the Rauma yarn, and I vow to use more pure wool this year. The Woolly Thistle imports beautiful wool from overseas, so that’s a good place to start when shopping for “yarn with a story”. I love knowing where my yarn came from!

But this time I chose Brooklyn Tweed’s Arbor yarn for a couple of reasons. After researching this yarn, reviews are outstanding. Everyone loves it, and I can now join that group – it is so nice. Secondly, the color selection was fabulous. I bought mine at Wool and Company, and they wound the skeins for free (as always).

My Arbor colors are “Kilmt” (gold) and “Thaw” (silver gray) and I think I made good color choices. It’s not super expensive yarn for the nice quality. It will need to be hand-washed, but how often do you need to wash mittens?

Glissade mitten pattern knitting — Getting beyond the cuff

The Glissade Mitten Pattern is for sale on Ravelry by Virginia Sattler-Reimer and I believe it is one of her newer patterns. She also has a very popular mitten called Tettegouche mitten which has many colors. She has a hat with the same name which is featured in the Milarrochy Heids book which I bought a while ago.

This mitten pattern is fun. It starts with a Latvian Braid, which I think looks really nice. (The designer includes directions for making the braid.) I think one reason a braid is used at the beginning of the cuff is to keep it from rolling.

Knitting the Thumb

The pattern is in chart form, and the thumb is shown separate, which took me a bit to figure out. The thumb stitches have to be added at a certain point in the pattern, which takes some getting used to for a newbie like me.

You can see my thumb placement knitting in the photo below. It was easier for me to add a marker so I would know exactly when the thumb stitches begin.

Thumb stitches on mitten knitting — I placed a marker at the beginning stitches of the thumb area

It’s tough to know gauge with mittens until you get far enough along to slip your hand through the DPNs. I began using size 3 DPNs, as the designer used – I switched to size 4 after the thumb – because the hand seemed to be a bit tight.

thumb knitting for mitten — Getting started on the colorwork thumb

I did okay for my first colorwork thumb. It did get a bit hairy at times, but all in all it was completely worth it because I love the outcome! I used a marker for the BOR, and added one in the center of the pattern, just to help keep me on track.

Love the color, love the yarn, love the fit, and love this pattern!

Here you can see how the side line of the mitten carries onto the thumb.

Inside thumb — Pattern on inside of thumb continue along the side of the mitten as well

I Love This Mitten!

Although I still have one more Glissade mitten to knit, I look forward to having a pair of these. The fit is perfect, but I did end up going up to size 4 DPNs once I put the thumb stitches on hold. I tend to be a tight knitter.

When I do the next mitten I will do the cuff in a size 3 and then change to a size 4 for the hand and thumb. It’s the only change I’ll need to make. (That worked well on #2)

I have not washed and blocked it yet – I am waiting for the second mitten to be knit.

Love my first colorwork mitten — Love this!

When doing stranded colorwork knitting, the inside of the mitten looks like the image below. It makes for a bit thicker fabric than plain knitting.

wrong side stranded knitting Glissade mitten — Wrong side

I am trying to be a better “pairs project” knitter, where I finish two mittens, two socks, etc., but I have to love what I am knitting for that to happen. I can’t see wasting time knitting something I dislike.

Finished today! My first pair of hand-knit, full colorwork mittens. They still need to be washed and blocked, but they fit well and look decent. In fact, I really enjoyed this knitting project. It was quick, even for me.

I did not knit every day. I have to work also, but the pair only took 13 days. Haha… some knitters can knit 3 pair in that length of time! Still, I am happy that I have a new pair of mittens AND I finished before the knit-along ends (March 26th).

hand-knit mittens in gold and off-white — Washed and blocked and ready to wear

Inspired to Knit More Mittens

Once I knit a project that I enjoyed, and turned out wearable, I want to do more. The Brooklyn Tweed Arbor yarn is so fabulous that I have my eye on a new mitten pattern in DK yarn. It’s called Fiddlehead, and is very popular. The DK weight works up quicker than fingering, and that is a good thing for a beginner.

In fact I might write a page full of DK and Worsted weight patterns.

Milet Mittens Colorwork Knitting Project and Mods

The Milet mitten pattern is my first real colorwork, small-needle knitting project. I’ve learned how to hold the yarn for the Main Color (MC) and Contrast Color (CC), and I’ve learned how to carry floats from both hands. So, I figured I was ready to attempt something new.

I did a trial knit of this pattern to try and figure out what size needles to use. The first attempt at this mitten came out very large (also my needle sizes were off – see Flexi Flip size discrepancies). I had gone up a needle size because usually I have to do that. But this time the mitten was way too big.

When I began my knit-along mitten project, although I had another mitten pattern in mind (Helianthus), I stuck with the Milet pattern because I could understand it (especially the thumb). I did go down to needle sizes 1.5 and 2 (pattern calls for 1.5 and 2.5). It meant I had to order some new DPN’s to finish off the top and thumb.

Honestly, I think this mitten should be knit in size 1 and 1.5, with added length for cuff and hand.

Knitting Milet mittens - cast on day — Accomplished the floral cuff the first day of knitting

The colorwork cuff is knit first then a ribbed lining is worked. Once the ribbing is finished the work is turned inside out to begin the hand. (See mug photo below.) I like this idea of making a double layer cuff.

Because I like a longer cuff on my mittens, I added extra rows of maroon to the bottom of the hand / wrist area, then did a Latvian Braid (just for fun) with a couple more rows of maroon. I wouldn’t do it this way again because that wrist area is too loose. I like the braid, but overall the mitten is simply too wide and loose.

Colorwork mitten knitting — I added a Latvian braid and extra rows to lengthen the cuff

The pattern is easy to follow, but it did take me some time to figure out the thumb knitting. I’m not experienced with picking up stitches and very small circumference knitting, so the thumb was annoying. Because of this, I decided to knit it solid maroon until I got near the top.

It took me twelve days to finish this one mitten, but I did not work on it every day. I had to wait for my Hiya Sharp #2 DPN’s to arrive.

Learned this: Very sharp, metal, DPNs are super helpful when knitting tiny stitches.

Review of Milet Mitten Pattern

Overall I like the looks of this mitten. Loads of people have also knit it, so it is popular. Many knitters have mentioned having to add length to the hand, which I also had to do. The nice thing about mittens is that they can be tried on. It’s easy to adjust length of hand and thumb by adding / subtracting rows.

The thumb chart has been fitted in with the hand, so it’s very easy to follow – but you must know how to read a chart to knit mittens. It’s not difficult, but when designers put the thumb chart separate from the rest of the work, I don’t know how to incorporate that into my knitting. It’s something I will have to figure out because I have other mitten patterns I would love to knit.

Buy the Milet Pattern, by Ysolda Teague, Here

I added three extra rows of the white dot pattern, but once I got to the top “star” pattern I realized I needed more length. So I added a couple more rows there.

The mitten is also very wide. I believe a thin pair of gloves could be worn inside for extra warmth.

The left-hand mitten will not be knit exactly the same way as I will make better adjustments. I’ll use the same needle sizes so the pair will match, but next time (if I ever knit this pattern again) I will use smaller needles overall.

Changes, Mods, to Pattern For Next Time

Needle size 1 and 1.5 for a tighter cuff and smaller mitten circumference overall
Lengthen the cuff by adding more colorwork or plain color knitting, then more rows of ribbing to match length.
Add as many rows as needed of dotted colorwork to the hand length.