How to Fix Knitting Mistakes

How to fix some common knitting mistakes. Every knitter needs to know how to un-knit, and frog to get back to their mistakes to be corrected.

One reason I refused to learn to knit when I was younger, was the difficulty in fixing mistakes.

When crocheting, we simply remove the hook and pull the yarn back past the goof, and begin again. This can’t be done when knitting.

How to “Tink” or Un-knit

While happily knitting along, suddenly you look back down the row you just knit (and it’s a good idea to get into the habit of doing this) and see something is wrong. Maybe what should have been a purl, is a knit. Maybe a stitch has dropped. Maybe the wrong color was used in a colorwork pattern. Whatever it is, it needs to be fixed. Now the stitches just worked need to be taken out, or un-knit / un-purled – back to the spot of the mistake.

Please note that if your mistake is waaaay back and it would take forever to un-knit to make the fix, read the next section about how to fix that type of booboo by frogging back.

The Chilly Dog has a good video showing (very slowly) how to take out knits and purls.

Sometimes your row will also have other stitches, such as K2tog, SSK, or more involved stitches. Good luck! Look that up on YouTube if you need help. Basically, undo the stitch by remembering how you made it in the first place.

While knitting the Field Sweater (left below) I used lots of stitch markers to divide my knitting into sections. I did the same for the ribbing in the Venlig sweater, mainly because the type of yarn made the stitches difficult to see.

If you knit to the end of the section, and something is off, you haven’t gone too far and the Tinking should be manageable. This is especially helpful for repeating patterns and colorwork.

Ripping Out Many Rows in Knitting, or Frogging Back

When I began knitting I feared making some huge mistake that would mean I’d have to start the whole project over. I actually took out entire hats because I couldn’t get back to the place I needed to be. This is known as Frogging in the knitting world.

Sometimes I’d slip the stitches completely off the needles and then attempt to put them back on at the desired place! Nightmare. I don’t recommend this.

Now I know the correct way to remove rows of knitting and begin fresh from the last correct row. It’s tedious and a bit scary for a big project, but doable. And, it’s a very good thing to know how to do.

I’ll be honest, I can only do this on a knit row. I use a small size circular needle, with a long cord, and pick up the right leg (or left – but do the same for every stitch, and only pick up one for each V) of each row of stitches. Do this all the way around, or across, to get every stitch held.

HINT: A sewing needle and waste yarn can be used in place of a knitting needle to hold the stitches. But the stitches held with waste yarn will have to be put back onto a needle, so it’s a bit of an extra step.

While picking up those stitches, be sure to stay on the same row – stitches picked up should be side by side, or in the same knit row. Once the spare needle is full with stitches from all the way around, or across (however your project is being knit – in the round, or flat), remove the project needle from the stitches.

Pull the knitting yarn (unravel) until only the stitches on that spare needle are left. Go slowly, and re-wind the yarn that has already been used. All stitches should now be on that small needle and are ready to be knit. Begin knitting according to the pattern, using the correct size project needle.

I did this for the first time when knitting the Marshland sweater. I’d done too many increases at one point, and had to go back many rows on the yoke to fix it.

Sometimes, depending on how you have picked up those stitches, they will be on the needle the wrong way. If the stitches are twisted, fix each one (quick video) as you knit the new row. HINT: You can also knit through the back loop to un-twist the stitch.

Gather Knitting Knowledge

In knitting, like many things, the more you know, the more you can do.

This frogging back many rows also comes in handy if you are unhappy with a finished, or partially finished, project. For instance, when I knit the Calliope sweater, I re-knit the first sleeve a few times before I was happy. I could never have done this without knowing how to frog many rows of stitches.

I plan to take out the neck ribbing on my recently finished Autumn Alpine and replace it with a better one. I’ll need to pick up stitches before I do that.

In other words, you are now free to correct and fix things you don’t like in a pattern. Even if you’ve finished the entire knit!

We Aren’t Perfect

We aren’t perfect and our hand knits don’t have to be either. I am a firm believer in leaving the little mistakes and moving on. Often it is something that only another knitter, upon close inspection, would notice. I don’t let it bother me.

Sometimes if I am off in my stitch count, I discreetly add, or remove, the extra stitch with a simple “make one” or “knit two together”. I’m becoming more creative in fixing little goof ups.

Knitting, for me, is a calm way to spend my time. If fixing a mistake will be more stressful than it’s worth, I ignore it.

I’ve only covered a couple of basic ways to fix knitting problems. Thank goodness for YouTube because we can usually find generous people who share their info with us.

More from my knitting world…

The Field Sweater Knitting Notes and Outcome

My experience knitting the Field Sweater pattern was a good one and I am very happy with the finished project.

The Field Sweater knitting pattern has a beautiful textured yoke. The “grains” can be a bit daunting to knit, at first. A kind knitter has shared informational tutorials on her YouTube channel, and these helped me a lot. I wrote a whole page about beginning this sweater project and knitting the grains.

The Pattern

I found the pattern to be very easy to follow, but a few things were not as well explained as they could have been. The description of the M1L increase was different, but each row of the entire grain section was written out. I did find the grains easier to knit after watching the videos that were made by another knitter.

Changes

The only change made by me, was to knit a wider sleeve. Once the sleeve stitches were picked up, I decreased only enough to come to the 70 stitches that begin the top of the sleeve, for the size I knit.

I continued knitting, using a 16 inch circular needle, all the way to the cuff. For the row before the ribbing began, I decreased to the suggested number (50) for the cuff.

Sleeve Decrease Round

Just before the cuff ribbing, I did one round and decreased from 70 to 50 stitches. After much contemplation (and exasperation!)… I finally figured it out and did the round like this:

To decrease from 70 to 50 stitches all at once: *k1,k2tog,k1,k2tog,k1 – Repeat to end of row.

Hey, I have come across this page / site by Mimi Codd where she shares a calculator for this very thing! You can try it out HERE. In fact when I put the numbers in (70 stitches to decrease to 50) this is what I get: K5, k2tog, [k1, k2tog] until last 6 stitches, K6. This would have saved me loads of time. I’m linking it in my top of page menu under knitting.

The sleeve ended up being loose, as I’d hoped, and was knit to the length suggested in the pattern. With a wider sleeve, it is possible to wear this over a top.

I did my bind off a little differently with a k1, p1tbl. Someone on Instagram had mentioned doing this as a bind off and I do like it.

Finished and Happy

Now, I have finished knitting this pretty pattern. The sweater fits me perfectly. It still needs a wash, but I’m already in love with it. It won’t be the last time I use this yarn.

More Knitting Ideas and Stories…

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Sweaters in the Works (WIPs)

Knitting sweaters and planning the next pattern. I always have more wool and ideas than time.

Sweaters knit using fingering weight yarn, or DK, generally take a while to finish. It’s a lot of little stitches to create a sweater for my size.

So, let’s start with my favorite WIP. The Field Sweater is pretty awesome. The yarn I chose is super soft and lovely and the fit is great. As of this post, it is not finished. I have the body left to knit. I changed the pattern for the sleeves to make them looser.

I love the neckline and love the fabric of the merino and mohair (both from Knitting for Olive). I can tell it will end up being a favorite.

I’m also knitting the Autumn Alpine sweater and this one is giving me a hard time. I guess it’s time to quit using patterns by this designer. For me, it’s always trouble getting the size right, or there is something about the pattern I end up not liking.

I began with a smaller size as I had planned to make this for someone else. Then, I didn’t really like the colors so I expanded the body to make it fit me. That really isn’t going to work – I don’t think. The neck is tight, and could get better after a wash and blocking, but overall, this is not a sweater I really love.

To end the knit quickly, I plan to do short, or 3/4 sleeves. The colorwork was fun (one of the reasons I chose this pattern) but I need to steer clear of this designer. She is very popular, and I am not putting her down, just saying that (for me) I have difficulties. She has some wonderful patterns and great designs, they just don’t work for my preferred style and sizing.

Looking Ahead

It’s easy to get bored with knitting a pattern. When the knitting takes weeks, or months, to complete, the mind begins to think about all those other colors and yarns, stashed in the back bedroom, just waiting to be used.

Sleeves and bodies are especially tough when the knitting is simple round and round and round. When I’m in love with the project, I can stay strong and get the task finished. The sweater will be a wonderful accomplishment. But, when the tedious knitting will end up with a project that is not such a favorite, it’s tough to continue.

I do plan to finish both of these sweaters before beginning another. Yes! I can do it (and I did finish them before beginning Rebel).

Yarn Stashed for the Project Queue

The new yarn in my queue is just dying to become something wonderful. I have more Knitting For Olive merino and mohair in pretty green. (The company is based in Denmark, but the yarn can be found at other places. They do offer free shipping from Denmark on a first order.) I chose green mainly because I have almost nothing to wear that is green. Also, you don’t see so many green sweaters being knit. So, it’s a bit unique.

Knitting for olive Yarn

Knitting for Olive yarn in green
Pea Shoots and Dusty Artichoke colors

The merino is “Pea Shoots” and the mohair is “Dusty Artichoke” and they will be held together to knit the Rebel Cardigan (link goes to the Ravelry page), by Ankestrick.

I tried a new online yarn shop to buy the mohair. The Starlight Knitting Society had a good price, and free shipping (although I don’t think it’s always free), so I chose my six skeins and had the yarn in no time. In fact, I had ordered one extra, which they ended up not having. I was contacted, and refunded, and all was good. It was a good price for this yarn, and with free shipping, I was very happy.

Harrisville Designs Highland

These Highland cones almost didn’t get to me. I had also ordered a book from Harrisville Designs, which ended up being out of stock. The order was placed around Christmas, so I figured it would take time. As weeks went by, I decided to check on the order and sure enough, the yarn was never shipped! It was all good, as customer service got it out right away.

Highland wool on cones
Highland cones in color Suede

The yarn is Highland wool, on a cone, in color “Suede”. I seem to have a thing for neutrals, on the brown-gray side! I had to put in a search for the cones on the site (they don’t seem to pop up otherwise) and was happy to find lots of color choices.

Cones contain approx. 450 yards x 3 = 1350 yards of worsted weight yarn. Cones (as of this writing) are $25.50 each and Harrisville Designs offers Free Shipping over $75… so that was wonderful as well!

What will I knit with my Suede cones? I’m considering the Clotilde Cardigan for this yarn. I may change my mind by the time I am free from WIPs…!! I had also thought about using my Alafosslopi for the Clotilde. So, we’ll see.

Purl soho’s Good Wool

Good Wool is from Purl Soho. These skeins are very squishy soft and I can’t wait to use them for something. The wool is undyed and this color is called “Hickory Nut”. Yup, it’s light brown! Haha… I will end up with a lot of neutral sweaters I think.

good wool by purl soho
Good wool

Keep reading my knitting stories…

A Collection of Knitting Books Worth Having

Knitting books you may like to add to your collection.

I have collected a few books about knitting and thought I’d share my knitting book reviews here. (Please know that some links go to the Amazon site, where I am an affiliate. If you end up purchasing through the link, I will get a small royalty which in no way affects the cost to you.)

Do you enjoy knitting Fair Isle, colorwork, and stranded? If so, there is a fun book of charts you must consider buying.

Alice Starmore’s Charts for Color Knitting contains more charts than (I suspect) you could use in a lifetime. I’ve only used a couple of the bigger charts, and a few of the “border” charts. This is a wonderful book for Fair Isle and colorwork knitters who like to choose their own patterns.

The author also goes into depth on how to create your own colorwork sweater. This is over my head at this point in my knitting journey, but would be very helpful for those who would like to design knitwear.

Alice Starmore’s charts for knitting book

I purchased a used copy of the book, in November 2021, and it is in very good condition. Check at Amazon for used books to save money. I’ve had very good luck buying used books of all kinds.

Both colorwork sweater designs below were taken from the book.


The Vogue Knitting Book, Revised and Updated Version

The Vogue Knitting book covers all types of thing related to knitting (with some pages about crocheting). From choosing needles and yarn, to finishing projects, and designing your own knitwear. There is a whole section on designing sweaters with knitting design worksheets to copy and use. There are more pages of knitter’s graph paper in the back of the book which can be copied as many times as needed.

I like most things about this book, and bought a used copy to save money. Cons for me are the dark colors used for a few of the sample images in the book. It is more difficult to see the samples. Also the images about how to work stitches can be hard to follow. I’d rather look it up on YouTube. For that reason, I often forget to use this book, but it is full answers to just about every single knitting question you may have.

Vogue Knitting book
My new Vogue Knitting book

The Mosaic Knitting Book

If you have never tried mosaic knitting, you really should. It is very simple to accomplish these colorwork patterns and is done on flat knitting projects.

Here in Florida we had a hurricane hit shortly after I purchased this book. I spent a few days without electricity. I used that down time to knit mosaics from this book!

Just think about a time without access to online things, or electricity to charge the computer and phone. I love to have books around for these reasons. The day may never come in your lifetime, but what if it does?

Mosaic knitting book
ball of yarn divider

A Brioche Knitting Book

I admit right off that I can’t knit brioche. Every year or so I give it a try, and fail. The last 1/4 of the book is all patterns! If you already like knitting brioche, this book may be worth purchasing just for the patterns. If, like me, you still need to get the hang of the basics, a video is probably more helpful.

Brioche knitting book.
balls of yarn graphic

Do you have some favorite knitting books? I’d love to hear about them. I wish I had some of my grandmother’s knitting stuff. I don’t know where it went when she died, but probably to one of her daughters. Do you have patterns, needles or other items that were passed down through the family?

Recent pages about knitting…

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