tutorials – New England's Narrow Road

Field Sweater Helpful Videos For Making the Grains

As I begin knitting the Field Sweater pattern, some video tutorials have been very helpful.

The Field Sweater, by Camilla Vad, is pretty popular and very beautiful. The pattern I am knitting is a pullover, but a cardigan pattern is also available.

I’ve continuously seen some form of this sweater all over Instagram. The yoke is textured with “grain” pods, which are made by wrapping the yarn to create a bump. However, it’s not that simple.

This is a top-down knit and I quickly knit the neck ribbing, which is basic. As I read over the grain rounds I became a little confused and went in search of videos.

Knitting for Olive merino and mohair — 13 round swatch

My yarn choice is Knitting For Olive fine merino combined with Soft Silk Mohair (also by Knitting for Olive). Both are in color Dusty Moose, which is a gray brown color. Bought at an end-of-year sale, I’ve never knit with this yarn before. (Now that I have begun the sweater, I absolutely love this yarn.)

Video Help For Knitting the Grain

The Making Grains tutorial by Mostly Knitting is the first one I watched and it is very easy to understand. She covers how to do the rows that make the smaller grain. (There is also a Large Grain to make further down the yoke – she covers that also in another video – Making the Large Grain.)

The grain is a bunch of stitches that make a texture around the yoke. Each grain takes many rows to accomplish. The directions are written out, row by row, in the pattern, with the “grain” part written as “make grain”. Making the Grain and Large Grain is also explained on the first page of the pattern directions. HOWEVER, it is helpful to watch someone actually knit this grain stitch.

After watching the videos I’m questioning whether I want to try these textured stitches using two yarns held together. In fact, I was debating whether or not to knit this sweater at all!

Knit a Little Swatch

The only way to know if I would be able to manage this pattern, while holding two strands of yarn together, (or even one strand) was to try it out. I don’t want to get into the yoke area only to find that I hate what I am attempting, mess it all up, and then be sorry.

So I knit a little swatch which is similar to the one shown in the video. The strands of yarn were carried across the back to mimic knitting in the round. I knit up to Round 13 and did 2 increase rounds.

back of swatch — Cut the strands that are too tight

Some of my strands were too tight so I cut them after the swatch was washed. *After knitting this swatch I realized I had accidentally used a smaller needle size than I should have! Chalk it up to bad eyes and tiny print on needles.

Use Stitch Markers

In the video, linked above, the knitter uses stitch markers to separate her two example sections of the grains. As I started the grain sections, I separated each section with markers. It’s a lot of markers, but will help me with this intense knitting project.

Field sweater neck ribbing — Field Sweater grains on yoke

Field sweater knitting — Field Sweater grains on yoke

Knitting Combinations

How do you eat an elephant? One bite at a time.

As we knit, each round will have its own combination of stitches. Some rounds are fairly simple, and some will be a struggle – for me. Using a cable needle and knitting many stitches together, slipping stitches, yarn overs – and other types of increases, are all needed to create this interesting texture. For any semi-experienced knitter, these stitches are not difficult. And that is how I have to look at it going in. Knit one small section at a time and hopefully keep mistakes contained…!!

Many Thanks to Mostly Knitting

Thanks to Mostly Knitting – link goes to her YouTube channel – and her excellent video tutorials that seem to answer the many questions knitters have concerning the Field Sweater pattern.

I think the pattern itself is well written, but in places, not as well explained as it could be. For example; “pick up the strand between the sts and knit it tbl” could be stated as “make one left” – see how it’s done in Mostly Knitting’s video “Round 9 of the Field Sweater“. There are two ways to pick up that strand, and if you do it wrong, you will be making a hole.

So far I’ve seen three different ways that the yoke increases are made. I guess it’s kinda fun to change things up. I like knowing that I can look up a video for help with this intricate knitting project. Onward I knit, with more to come.

Here’s my progress…

Textured knitting on Field sweater — Yarn: Knitting for Olive

When I began the yoke texture (making the grains), I realized that going slowly is key. Having markers for each section is very helpful. As I finished up a section, I would go back and count the stitches to double check. As the yoke expands, the sections do as well, and there is more and more to do for each one.

I began knitting using a wooden Lykke circular needle (24 inches), but switched to metal Chaio Goo (32 inch) in Round 27 (photos below). The metal needle made things much easier!

Making, and Closing, the Large Grain

Later in the yoke: Making the Large Grain is part of Round 27. And closing the grain in round 29. See the easier way to close the grain, or knit all five stitches together, this in this video.

Making the large grain is not as difficult as knitting the five stitches together through the back loop.

When I got to the last row that completes the Large Grains, I ended up using the cable needle to hold the five stitches that were to be knit through the back loop. The cable needle is smaller than my knitting needles leaving larger loops to pick up.

knitting grains of Field sweater pattern — using cable needle to knit the large grain stitches together

Hold large grain stitches with cable needle — using cable needle to knit the large grain stitches together

I am enjoying this knitting project. The directions are very good, and completely written out. Having the additional videos is very helpful as well.

Weighing In

On the designer’s page for the Field Sweater page there are 145 comments (at the time of this writing) and many are angry words aimed at the designer for not including much larger sizes. In some opinions, this pattern is not size inclusive.

The measurement goes up to 142 cm , or 55 inches around. That seems pretty inclusive to me. Here’s the thing, if a designer only wants to go to a certain size, it is his/her prerogative. This is HER business. She is in control of her pattern size configurations. I’ve never written a pattern, but I’m sure a lot of math and figuring goes into creating the various sizes. Just like politics, could we please leave the size inclusive bickering out of knitting?

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Learning the Tubular Cast on For Knitting Hats and More

Found some tutorials for knitting the tubular cast on. This one looks so nice when it is accomplished, but may take some practice.

For every pattern I have knit that suggests a tubular cast-on, I skip that part and do my usual German Twisted cast on. One time I did try to do the tubular and it was a disaster. Now, it’s time to try again.

The tubular cast on gives the edge of any 1×1 (or 2×2) ribbing a “rolled” appearance, without an obvious front and back. Often it is used for hat brims, sock tops, collars on top down sweaters, ribs on bottom up sweaters, mitten cuffs or flat knitting the edge of a ribbed project. I have found that it is not an easy thing to accomplish, but worth the trouble.

On this page I have linked a variety of tutorials for doing the tubular cast on in the round and doing it flat.

Tubular Cast Ons Are Done Differently for Flat vs. In the Round!

Three Ways to Do the Tubular Cast On

I’m covering three general ways to begin and knit a tubular cast on. There could be more, but these are the ones I tried – to some extent. Some tutorials are done English style (yarn held in right hand) and some are Continental (yarn held in left hand). Some use waste yarn and some don’t. I had success using Tutorial #3 using a crocheted cast on.

Tutorial #1: Backwards Loop Cast On With Waste Yarn

This tutorial shows flat knitting, or back and forth, not in the round. Half the number of total stitches needed – plus one – are added to a straight, or long, needle using the backward loop method and waste yarn. I used a size 3US straight metal needle for this.

This is all I did. I did not continue with this cast on because I need to knit in the round for my hat. This beginning is similar to the crocheted cast on (see #3 tutorial).

tubular cast on examples — Backwards loop directly onto a straight needle

After a couple of set up rows are complete, the stitches would be connected to knit in the round (if that is needed for the project). She mentions having a video for that, which I can’t find!

Here is her flat knitting tubular cast on tutorial, done English style: Knitting Whimsy Tubular Cast on.

Tutorial #2: Italian Tubular Cast on, or Alternating Knit and Purl Cast On

This cast on was tough for me. The Italian Tubular cast on does not use waste yarn. Stitches – all the stitches needed for the project – are added to the needle by doing alternating knits and purls.

It takes practice if you have never done this type of cast on. Also, the stitches twist around the needle and the whole thing can look horrible and confusing (my experience). Getting them all straight for the first set up row might be challenging.

Wool Bird has a very good video showing how to do this in the round. She knits Continental style. As an English style knitter, I found this an easy video to follow.

Jared Flood / Brooklyn Tweed has a video: How to Knit: Italian Tubular Cast On. He uses a thin yarn, which is more difficult to see, but it’s a good tutorial for flat knitting, English style. His pointers: Use a needle 2 sizes smaller than the pattern to begin this cast on, snug up the stitches so they don’t roll, and do a backward loop to hold the stitches in place when finished.

The 1×1 rib cast on can be converted to a 2×2 rib also. See Ysolda’s video below. She shows this at the end.

Ysolda has an excellent, and slow enough to follow, video here. She knits English style and does show how to join and knit in the round. She suggests doing two set up rows before joining. Near the end of the video she explains how to convert the tubular cast on to a knit 2, purl 2, or two by two ribbing, if that is what the project calls for.

Tutorial #3: The Crochet Cast On

My search for info first brought me to this video: Cushion of Joy. It is the one I was able to get through. She gets right to the point, after talking a bit about why we would want to do all that work for a cast on. Her approach is to use a large straight needle and crochet waste yarn onto it. This cast on needs only half the total number of stitches to begin with.

This video is good but, she knits Continental style and I don’t. Her waste yarn is nearly the same color as her main yarn, which can be confusing. However, she does connect the stitches to do her knitting in the round.

tubular cast on crochet — Begin with crochet of waste yarn

read to join in the round — Begin with crochet of waste yarn

I did have some trouble. Before joining the ends to knit in the round, I made sure all my stitches were straight, as you do normally (middle photo). Once I did my first row, the stitches had become twisted! I fiddled around with it, and just kept going. I was sure the whole thing would be unusable anyway. So watch your stitches on that first row in the round.

My Suggestion: Practice this cast-on for a small circumference (fewer stitches) project, and / or use a heavy type yarn.

This hat pattern (Classic Ribbed Hat – see pattern link below) had 120 stitches for the size I chose. It’s a lot of knitting on something that could end up a complete mess!

As I knit each row, it was difficult to tell if my alternating stitches were in the right place. I really didn’t know what to look for and the tutorial could have been better in this area.

At the end, my crocheted blue waste yarn did not slip right out either. I had to cut it in various places and pick it out.

Somehow, and much to my surprise, my first tubular cast on looked pretty nice! It was a miracle…!! I was short one stitch, which I added on my first k1,p1 round. Also, my nubby, tweed yarn is probably hiding some mistakes!

tubular cast on ribbed hat knitting — Tubular cast-on success!

tubular cast on hat edge — Tubular cast-on success!

I was happy and amazed that my tubular cast on was usable. When I do it again it should be perfect, right? Now I am continuing to knit on this hat with finished pictures to come.

I managed to get through the video and began my hat, which is the Classic Ribbed Hat free pattern from Purl Soho. I’m using Purl Soho’s Hedgerow yarn in color Woodpile Gray.

Be Positive About Learning Something New

If you have the time, always strive to learn a knitting technique you love. This type of cast on takes time and practice, and I know a lot of people don’t have much free time. I had to rip the whole thing out and start over more than once. Sometimes that is part of knitting and I’m here to say, “You are not alone!”

I recently learned how to do magic loop – finally. And wow, it is really pretty easy. This tubular cast on is not necessarily easy, but is worth learning how to do.

Fiber crafters read on

Knitting Brioche, Cast-on Ideas

At first, I was not interested in learning the brioche stitch. Most patterns I saw kind of turned me off. In fact, I considered brioche to be a bit ugly sometimes. Then again, some brioche patterns are stunning! This type of knitting can create hats that are reversible, with a different look on each side.

Here is the beginning of a hat with brioche in three colors. First I used red and white, then added some blue. If I had been able to knit this correctly, the hat could be worn with the white (gray) mostly showing, or the color side. It could have ended up being a nice hat – if I hadn’t failed so miserably at knitting it!

Brioche in the round, hat knitting practice — My attempt at brioche knitting

brioche hat knitting other side — My attempt at brioche knitting

Brioche Hat – “Skipp” by Brooklyn Tweed

I love to knit hats and I’ve knit a few BT patterns. Hats are my favorite knitting projects because they are quick and use DPNs for only a short time. After I knit the Habitat hat in bright orange cables for my daughter, I wanted to knit more hats. Why not learn some new things while doing so? And let’s try some brioche.

My son had given me a Brooklyn Tweed gift certificate for Mother’s Day and I needed to use it. I decided to buy some patterns because my yarn stash is already large. One of the hat patterns I purchased is called “Skipp” and it’s done in brioche stitch.

The idea of creating a reversible hat appealed to me, and brioche creates a reversible fabric. Yippee… onward. But first I would have to learn a new kind of cast-on to create a nice hat edging.

Hat’s can’t be knit until a good cast-on is completed. These special cast-on directions will create a tidy edge for a brioche knit hat. As I note on this page, I did a few different cast-ons but then had lots of trouble jumping in and beginning the pattern.

#1. Rib Cabled Cast-on

The cast on for the Skipp beanie is called a Rib Cabled Cast On. It’s not that difficult to accomplish, but I needed to use two yarns held together (notes for this pattern). I can’t go into the list of all the mistakes I made because there were too many, but in general the stitches in my rounds didn’t line up at the join. There are no directions for joining in the round – and this is the problem.

brioche knitting and finding a good cast on — First of many fails….this shows that rib cable cast-on with double yarn

Hint: To learn brioche use two contrasting colors of yarn. Don’t use variegated. Make the stitches easy to tell apart by color. Also, try a pattern that calls for a heavy weight yarn. This will make that difficult cast-on progress faster!

Grrrrrrr…..

So I decided to try again with a single yarn color and I began that looooong cast-on again. I needed two yarns, so I had to cut a length from my skein hoping it would be enough – it wasn’t – only made it to 60 stitches and needed 96.

Hint: This type of cast-on uses lots of yarn. More than a normal cast on.

Ripped out again and cut a longer length – I needed about double (if you try this, double what you’d use for a normal long-tail cast on). Got finished with that cast on, joined and began the purl using both yarns – but I was only supposed to use one… when I went to un-purl that stitch the join fell apart… I don’t even know what happened, but at that point I gave up for the day and ripped it out.

Knitting Skipp Video Reference

I found THIS VIDEO of a woman who is actually knitting the Skipp hat… at about 5:47 minutes she shows how to join the cast-on, which is to simply purl into the first stitch for the set up round. What? Could it really be this easy??

The video is not great, but at least it tells how to join after the cast on. So, I tried it – just began with a purl like she did. And my join was not really a join… I discovered this after a couple more rounds. It looked like crap. This was another waste of time. (However, if I ever get past the cast-on, this video shows the crown shaping for Skipp, which I might need.)

#2. The Italian Tubular Cast-on

In Jared Flood’s tutorial for the Italian Cast On, he says it’s perfect for brioche. He knits a small, flat brioche sample. This is a good video but there are no directions for joining in the round because it’s back and forth knitting...! So, no help there.

#3. Italian Tubular Cast-on in Two Colors

In Jared Flood’s tutorial for the Italian Tubular Cast On in Two Colors, he does a little flat swatch. This is not helpful for hat knitting.

Andrea Mowry has a tutorial for Two Color Tubular cast-on which is pretty good. She slowly (thank-you) shows and explains the cast-on and set up rows. See my examples below from following her video. Notice my circle is not joined because there were no directions for that – OF COURSE…!!! But this video is a good one.

Her video is for her “Harlow” brioche hat pattern. The cast-on and two set up rows are knit before joining in the round. If I could get to this point, join in the round, and begin brioche knitting, I think I would be okay.

The Italian tubular cast-on is not easy, in my opinion. As the stitches are put onto the needle, they are loose and if you stop or take your hand away, the stitches fall off the needle! I suggest using two colors because it’s easier to see where you are in the cast on, and in the video.

I never figured out how to do any new “brioche” cast-ons, but began the Skipp hat using a normal cast-on. Then, I kept messing up my knitting and ripped the whole thing out. I hate brioche.

So What is My Problem?

I’ll tell you where I keep getting stuck – it’s at the BOR (beginning of round). Once the cast-on is finished I can’t join correctly because the knitting of brioche requires different BOR stitches. I guess maybe adding one extra stitch to combine with a regular stitch might work. Usually I transfer the two end stitches on my needles to join in the round, but that won’t work for brioche. Am I just making this more difficult than it needs to be?

#4. Long-tail Cast-on Over Two Needles

Maybe another designer can explain all this better. So I went looking for a new pattern to try.

The free hat pattern called BriocheStarter Hat (link below) is listed as using worsted yarn. But, the cast on number is the same as Skipp’s (fingering weight) at 96 stitches. This is confusing, and must be wrong. I noticed that many knitters using worsted cast-on fewer stitches (80).

And what type of cast on does this free pattern call for? A long-tail cast on over two needles. The tutorial does not show how this cast-on looks once it’s finished. One needle gets pulled out, and I’m not sure I would like the looks of this cast on. It sounds a little odd but what do I know. My Vogue Knitting book also says to do the brioche cast-on in this manner. (Truthfully this is one I did not try myself.)

For a free pattern, this one is very well written with charted and written directions for knitting brioche. The designer does mention knitting the first couple rows flat and then to join… AGAIN…no directions for how to make that join and then begin the pattern.

Please, someone help me get my cast-on joined!

Brioche Knitting Patterns

I have not knit any of these projects, but if I ever decide to try brioche again – and get it right – I will probably try one of these.

Brioche Knots – beautiful hat by Katrin Shubert, done in DK yarn in two colors.
Magic Brioche – also by Katrin Shubert.
Brioche Loop – FREE cowl pattern
BriocheStarter Hat – This is a FREE brioche hat pattern.
Gina’s Brioche Hat and Cowl – FREE pattern by Purl Soho – This pattern uses a rolled brim cast on which means after a normal cast on, simple rows of knitting are done to create the roll. The second color is added after that.

Failing at Brioche in Photos

Once I began to knit brioche, I loved it – when things were going well – but most of my knitting was a BIG FAT FAIL.

For the “hat” below I did a normal long-tail cast-on, because I gave up on the special brioche cast-ons. Although I had many mistakes – which mainly began at the beginning of each round – I kept knitting for the practice. Finally, I took photos and ripped out the project.

I will NOT be attempting to knit brioche again anytime soon, but will post this page for future reference. If you have any tips for brioche knitting, or have a favorite cast-on, I’d love to hear from you in the comments.