Knit the Warm-Up Sweater Pattern

The Warm Up Sweater may be a perfect free pattern for a first time sweater knitter.

For those of us who have not knit a lot of sweaters – or knit them successfully – the raglan top-down style may be the easiest.

I’ve begun knitting the Warm-Up Sweater which is NO LONGER a free pattern, UNLESS you buy yarn from Espace Tricot – for this sweater and mention it when buying.

See the Espace Tricot designer page at Ravelry. I believe this company has changed hands, and now many of their patterns are no longer free.

The Warm-up sweater knitting pattern with collar and yoke complete

Anatomy of a Raglan Sweater

A raglan sweater is known for the increases done along the sleeve and shoulder area that dips down toward the underarm. You can see these stitches, that make a “line” on either side of the front. They are also on the back. The raglan style looks like four sections put together, but it is knit round and round. The knitting expands outward around the yoke and creates room for the sleeves.

This sweater pattern has a simple “knit through the back loop” increase but some sweaters do a pretty little cable or decorative area at these increases which looks very nice (Blueberry Vodka Lemonade Sweater).

A raglan is usually knit from the top down which makes it nice because it can be tried on as it is being knit – or at least pulled over the head. Raglans are usually pullovers but can also be cardigans.

What You Need to Know to Knit This Pattern

The Warm-up pattern – get it at Ravelry – begins with a cast-on at the neck. A few rows of a twisted rib is done and then some short rows. I love that this free pattern includes short rows. See my photo to see how the short rows raised the back of the neck. Sweaters need this shaping to fit comfortably. It is surprising to me that some designers, who sell sweater patterns, do not include short rows in their sweaters!

If you need more info about knitting the Short Rows for the Warm Up sweater, I have written a whole page about making the short rows.

Short rows raise the back

After that we get into the raglan increases which take place on either side of the sleeve / shoulder areas.

When the correct length and stitch number is reached, the sleeves are put on hold while the body is knit down to the correct length. A bottom ribbing is done and bound off.

Then each sleeve will be knit. Stitches at the sleeve area will be picked up from the waste yarn and the sleeve will be knit down to the correct length. Decreases are spaced to taper the sleeve shape. Do the ribbing and bind-off. Weave in ends, wash and block, and you have a new, hand-made sweater!

Is The Warm-Up Sweater Good For Beginners?

If you are a beginner sweater knitter, you may enjoy knitting this pattern. If you are a total beginner knitter, you should try something easier – a shawl, scarf, or hat – first. In other words, this is not a pattern for an absolute beginner. I say this because there is a lot to learn if all you can do is knit a little. I have mentioned in the section above what this pattern entails.

For those who want to step up their knitting game from the simple stuff, and are thinking about knitting a sweater, this one is perfect. The directions are very clear with stitch counts along the way to make sure you are on track.

Read through all pages and highlight numbers for your size before beginning – or go row by row on a knitting app. Also, if you’ve never done them, learn about doing German Short Rows – marked as “work GSR” in the pattern. Purl Soho has a good video. Follow the directions, row by row, and you will be fine.

You may even learn new and useful techniques along the way!

A Little Sweater Knitting Advice

If you are new to sweater knitting, first be sure to check your gauge. Yes, you must. Keep the little swatch as a reference. It is not a waste of time. The gauge required is listed on the first page of the pattern and also on the Ravelry Warm-Up pattern page. For more on gauge see my post here.

A few knitters had trouble with the cast-on number of stitches being too small, or too tight around the neck. I had no trouble, but would prefer a wider neck. I am knitting size 4 – or finished circumference bust size 49 inches. I used the Old Norwegian, aka German Twisted, cast on method, which is somewhat stretchy and had 68 stitches on my 16 inch circular needle. I suggest using this type of cast-on. See my page about different ways to cast on when knitting if you don’t know it.

My sweater is being knit in Icelandic Lettlopi wool. The Warm-Up is shown in worsted weight yarn, in solid colors with an option to do thin stripes. Of course you can use whatever yarn you want as long as you get gauge. I happened to have a lot of brown yarn and instead of doing a solid brown sweater, I opted to do wide stripes alternating the two browns.

Because my yarn is wool, I am doing a spit-splice every time I change colors or add a new skein of yarn. This is saving me from having to weave in many ends when the garment is finished.

spit splice knitting no ends to weave in
Wrong side – with no tails!

I am having fun knitting this simple sweater. Now that I am beyond the raglan increases, it is mindless round and round knitting that can be done in the car or in front of the television. All I need to remember is to change colors when it’s time (I am knitting 12 rounds of each color), and measure for length.

The needles I have used are size 7 and 8, 16-inch circular. Size 8, 32-inch circular (for the body). Then I switched to a 9-inch circular down the sleeve and for the ribbing at the cuff. DPNs can also be used, but I really don’t like using those.

On the sleeves, I picked up and began knitting with the 16-inch circular and changed to the 9-inch circular toward the end of the sleeve. I knit the ribbing in size 7.

Because I did spit-splicing throughout when changing colors, I only had 6 ends to weave in – one under each arm, at the neck, body rib and sleeve ribs…. pretty awesome!

Future Plans

If this sweater turns out to fit me well, I plan to make more like it with possible modifications. I almost made a rolled collar on this one, so maybe I will do so next time. It definitely needs to be wider for comfort.

For another time, some color-work could be added at the bottom near the cuffs on the body and sleeves. I’d go up a needle size to do that.

Finished Knitting

Now my striped sweater is drying. All I had leftover for yarn was two small skeins each of the dark and light brown. In all I used about 9 1/2 skeins, or approximately 1,031 yards.

I’ll try it on and get photos once it’s dry. Total knitting time was about a month and a half. See notes on my Warm-Up Sweater Ravelry page.


December at the Fire

The few cool days we have here in my area of Florida are much appreciated by me! I dig out my wool sweaters and make sure I wear them. It was also an opportunity to get a few selfies.

Warm Up sweater
Warm up sweater
Warm up sweater sleeve
12/2023

Please Keep Reading

Something went wrong. Please refresh the page and/or try again.

The Umpqua Pattern is My First Sweater Project

This is a big deal for me! I am knitting a sweater…!

For my first hand-knit sweater project I chose the Umpqua Sweater pattern by Caitlin Hunter of Boyland Knitworks. I know so little about knitting sweaters that I have no idea if top-down, or bottom up, are easiest, but here I go. I’m jumping in! This pattern is knit from the bottom up. The fun “arrow” design around the yoke caught my attention and I wanted to knit it.

Gauge is still a bit of a mystery to me. As far as I could tell, while figuring the gauge for this sweater, I needed to go up a needle size. I’m using a size 6 for the cuffs and bottom of body, and a size 8 for all the rest. I’d rather have the sweater fit loosely than tight. The pattern suggests going up a size for the color work (yoke area) if you generally do color work tighter. I have no idea if I should do that, but I don’t have a size 9 circular long needle, so I probably won’t. I’ll worry about that when I get to the color work part of the sweater.

Body and One Sleeve – I’m On My Way!

Here’s a photo of my one sleeve and body. I still have a few inches to knit on both parts, and no, they are not connected. I set them side by side for the photo. I’m happy with the main color (Whole Grain) and I love the Rios yarn. Check out the Malabrigo website and I dare you not to buy their gorgeous yarn. Rios is washable too! I also chose Aguas (dark green) for the trim, and English Rose (dark pink) for the Yoke colors.

One sleeve and body of the Umpqua sweater pattern using Malabrigo Rios yarn in color "whole grain".

Knitters who are savvy sweater people make all sweater knitting sound EASY. I’m scared to death while I knit this. I’m following the pattern exactly and if I am unhappy with some part (like sleeve length), I may knit another one of these sweaters one day and make changes. This one is really a test for me!

Attaching Sleeves and Body of Sweater

Now both sleeves are done and I put the stitches of the sleeves onto “holders” like the pattern said. One little section of stitches is for the armpits – which will be stitched up at the very end – and the rest of the stitches will be knit with the body.

Purl Soho has an excellent tutorial which explains how to do this, so I added it here. It helped me visualize the parts of sweater knitting. Also, after watching the video, I realized that when I finished up my second sleeve, I should have kept the stitches on my 3 DPN’s and not placed them onto yarn. I had to put the stitches back onto the needles to knit – a waste of time.

Knitting the Umpqua sweater and ready to join the sleeves and body
My finished sleeves and body which are ready to be attached.

Doing German Short Rows at Yoke

Because I was not happy with the look of the short rows I did earlier in the pattern (see photo below where you can see 3 “off” stitches where I did a wrap and turn to shape the back), I decided to try German Short Rows when it came to shaping the yoke.

NOT German short rows, but the 3 wrap and turns done for shaping the back.

I had read from some of the Umpqua knitters that they used this type of short row work. The YouTube video below is by Very Pink Knits and it is how I learned to do German Short Rows, which seem simple enough.

However, the sweater pattern itself was confusing when it came to doing short rows. Once I began doing wraps and turns (creating short rows) I had no idea where they were on my needles. Suddenly “Short Row 3” said to “knit to 5 stitches before last wrapped stitch, wrap and turn“. Does that mean the last stitch I wrapped, or the last wrapped stitch I would come to while knitting? I had no answer, so I turned at the first wrapped stitch I came to because the pattern said later on to “work wraps together”. I figured I should not hit a previously wrapped stitch until then. I have no idea if I did this part correctly.

Umpqua sweater knitting, bottom up, nearly at the yoke color work area.
Sleeves attached and almost ready for color work in yoke area.

Now I am nearing the color work area of the yoke, and that is shown in chart form only. Luckily I know how to read a chart for working in the round. I may order more Rios yarn in other colors because I still think I will be cutting it close with my main color (MC). If I substitute a new color in place of the main color for the rows of yoke color, I will conserve the MC yarn for finishing.

Adding Color to The Yoke Area

Below you can see my first rows of the color chart. I did decide to use another color of Rios yarn, which I just happened to have in my stash. I can’t find the tag for it, but it’s a peach color (Peachy?). I’m sticking with “whole grain” which is the MC for between the green rows as the pattern says. The same main color should also be where the yellow / peach color is, but I’m afraid I will run out by the time I need it to finish the neck area.

Colorwork for the yoke of the Umpqua Sweater using Malabrigo Rios yarn in English Rose and Peach color.
Umpqua sweater yoke pattern colors are done
Done with the yoke colors and finishing the neck.

Three-Needle Bind Off For Armpits

The yarn that has been held on stitch holders or extra yarn now needs to be put onto DPN’s once again – Do this on the WRONG SIDE. Holding them side by side a three-needle bind off is done. Watch the video below as it is easier to understand, but it’s very simple to do. Holes will probably remain at each end, but they can be closed up when weaving in the tails.

Binding off on the wrong side of sweater armpit area

I’ve found this tutorial by Purl Soho which shows exactly how to accomplish the three-needle bind off. Don’t sweat it – it’s easy!

Right side of sweater after underarm is bound off
A neat seam after binding off the underarm area of the Umpqua Sweater. I also closed the holes when weaving in the tails.

Finished..!

On April 7th I finished knitting my Umpqua sweater and I am pleased! It fits.. yay! There is lots of room to move and it would keep me very warm in cold weather, I’m sure. The day I finished, by weaving in the tails and closing up the underarms, it was in the 80’s here in Florida. Not exactly sweater-wearing weather. Because it was hot and muggy, I didn’t wash and block it yet. There is no hurry because I won’t ever be able to wear this garment unless I take a trip North to New England in cooler months! But I did get some photos.

Wearing my sweater for a selfie
Selfie time!

You can see the “whole grain” main color and the peachy colored arrows. Those were supposed to be the main color, but I was afraid I would run short so I used some Rios stash yarn. I do like the addition of color. I knitted size “D” but I probably could have gotten away with one size smaller. Or, I should have kept the suggested needle size and not gone up one.

Umpqua Sweater finished and hanging to show off the pretty colorful yoke and Rios yarn colors.
Hanging with the drum set

I think I did my SSK’s incorrectly, but it’s not super noticeable. Live and learn is my motto.

Sweater and seashells – a rock snail and two olive shells.

Collecting and photographing seashells is another hobby of mine. I have a blog about it at Seashells by Millhill.