Notes on Knitting The Cobblestone Cardigan

On January 24th I began knitting the Cobblestone Cardigan pattern by Jarod Flood. It is rated at two stars out of five for difficulty, so should be an easy knitting project.

The yarn I used was Brooklyn Tweed Shelter in “Narwhal” color which is a marl of two colors twisted together. I bought 10 skeins and my size calls for 11 skeins, but I did squeak by with 10 – just barely. I prefer knitting with a lighter color yarn because my eyesight is not that great. Knitting in the evening is especially difficult. My knitting wish is that designers would print up their patterns in bolder, larger print.

A highlighter comes in handy to remind me of the pattern’s important information.

Brooklyn Tweed Shelter in Narwhal for a sweater
10 Skeins of Narwhal yarn

I read through the pattern and will have to learn the new increase mentioned when the time comes. I love to try new things and I think this pattern will be just challenging enough in places to keep me happy. Also, lots of the knitting is simply round and round (sleeves) and back and forth, which I can do at night. I need this sweater for my trip to New Hampshire in March and I should have it done well ahead of that (*Nope- 3/1 I finished knitting – still needs buttons). Note: This is an easy pattern and would make a good first sweater. End project is large, will go down a sweater size next time.

End Results, Or Continue Down the Page

Please read on to see the notes I recorded while knitting this project. But, before the page got long, I wanted to comment on my finished garment. The Cobblestone Cardigan knitting is finished and the cardigan is very big. The neck had to be tightened up as it was very droopy. Doing that was a big improvement. Note: ***Don’t do a loose cast on! Also the sleeves are big around and droopy in the armpits. My gauge was right on, and I did go up a size, but it was a mistake. Now I am wondering if I should attempt to shrink it, or simply wear it around the house to be cozy. EXCEPT I live in Florida where I put a sweater on about five times a year. I’ve ordered some buttons from Etsy and will get more photos once I add them.

Cobblestone cardigan

Beginning the Project: Cast On and Markers

I’m knitting the fourth size in the pattern although I expect it to be a little large (*Yes, this was a mistake!). I’d rather that than too tight. I cast on using the German Twisted / Old Norwegian cast-on (*Also a mistake – Do a regular cast-on, or the pattern recommendation, or the neck will be too loose!).

I placed a marker to remind me of the right side of the project. Whenever that blue marker is on my right when beginning a row, I am on the right side. I also placed a marker to show the first buttonhole.

Note: Count the stitches whenever the stitch count for the row is given!

Cast on and placing markers for the beginning of the Cobblestone Cardigan
Beginning the sweater

Placing The Buttonholes

I wanted the buttonholes on the right side front (when wearing) and making that pattern change was easy – there is a note in the pattern for making the change. Without a yarn shop / button seller nearby, I’m forced to search online for my buttons and it’s hard to find them online in the right size but I did find some to order from Etsy.

marking buttonholes for Cobblestone Cardigan
Marking my buttonholes

Every time I knit a the hole for a button, I place a marker so it can be seen easily. Then I am knitting 12 ridges between buttonholes.

Moods Fabric has a chart that shows button sizes in inches / mm and ligne.

Learning a New (and Easy) Increase

The Raised Right Increase (RRI) in the Cobblestone pattern was something I had not done before. I found it to be a very easy increase to knit. I’ve done the yarn over increase, knit front and back increase, and the right / left lifted increases.

The RRI reminds me of knitting in the round with colors or stripes and creating the jogless knit stitch at the beginning of the round, except the stitches are not knit together. This is an increase stitch so it is creating an extra stitch by lifting a stitch from the previous row. The pattern provides detailed directions for doing this stitch. Note: Remember that the RRI includes a knit stitch so when the pattern says, “RRI and knit 2” you will be knitting 3 stitches total.…!

In case you want to know some variations on making a knit stitch increase, the Interweave site has a list of Six Essential Increases Every Knitter Should Know. I admit that I do not know them all!

Knitting the Body of the Sweater

It is February 6th and there is not much to say here except to watch for buttonhole placement as I knit. (*I ended up not really liking the long garter stitch area of this sweater. I think I would shorten that up if I ever knit this again. It makes the shoulders / top of arms look bulky.)

Somehow cats know just when to show up and get into the photo, don’t they?

knitting the Cobblestone Cardigan
Knitting the body

End of February and On To Knitting The Sleeves

Because I am one skein short of the recommended amount of yarn, I will begin the first sleeve with a new skein of yarn. Once I see how far I get, I will use up the remaining 1/2 of the ball leftover from the body of the sweater.

Stitches on hold were put onto a 16 inch circular needle. Using a wooden DPN, I began picking up stitches from the underarm and divided all stitches for the sleeve to fit four DPNs (19-20 stitches on each needle). After the stitches were picked up, I used the 16 inch circular needle to knit down the sleeve until close to the end when I changed to DPNs at the cuff – the sleeves are WIDE. *I reduced the number of rows before each decrease row. For my size I was to decrease on every 8th row, and I did it on row 7. After the decreases, the sleeves were about long enough, so I stopped knitting and did the cuff – change to the smaller needle.

  • picking up stitches to begin knitting the sweater sleeve
  • picked up stitches for sleeve knitting
  • knitting Cobblestone sleeve

Don’t forget to change to size B (6) needles to do the garter stitch cuff! I forgot on this first sleeve so I ripped the first cuff out and re-knit using the smaller, size 6 needles. I had enough gray yarn to finish up both sleeves correctly.

The underarm seam on my first sleeve looks really good! Because the stitches are picked up in the center of the underarm, leave a longer than usual tail to close up any holes at the edges. I did pick up a few extra stitches and then decreased back to the normal count.

Underarm sweater seam looking good
I’m very happy with the look of the first sleeve underarm

The knitting is finished. I squeaked by with my ten skeins of yarn, but I would suggest buying the eleven skeins suggested. I shortened up the body a little and also the sleeves. If you need extra sleeve and body length, you will definitely need 11 skeins! The sweater, before washing, seems very large – and stayed large. The neck is loose, so I hope that blocking will help tighten it all up. *I had to pick up stitches around the neck to tighten it up and did a regular, rather tight bind-off with the smaller size needle.

Cobblestone Cardigan knitting project on the mats and drying
Washed and drying my Cobblestone
  • Wearing my Cobblestone Cardigan hand knit in gray wool
  • modeling the Cobblestone Cardigan
  • Cobblestone Cardigan knit in Brooklyn Tweed yarn

Knitting the Cobblestone Cardigan was fun, except that I put a time limit on myself due to my travel plans. The pattern is perfect for any beginner sweater knitter. Overall, I love the body and trim, with garter down the sides. I’m not as thrilled with the puffy shoulder area and big, wide sleeves. The neck was too wide and droopy, but mainly because of my cast-on choice – I think. A tighter neckline pulls the sweater up more and looks better.

Buttons came from TrimGem at Etsy. I ordered some black and gray and chose the gray which I think work nicely.

My Cobblestone Cardigan hand knit sweater is done with buttons added.

Recent Blog Posts

Something went wrong. Please refresh the page and/or try again.

Knitting Review of The Oulu Mitts Colorwork Pattern

The cold weather is here, and even in Florida temperatures have been freezing in my area. Knitting mittens and better yet, for me, knitting fingerless mitts, has become an obsession. I purchased the Oulu Mitts pattern as it was on sale in December. The pattern is from Caitlin Hunter of Boyland Knitworks.

I could see from photos that the cuff was a corrugated rib, which I am familiar with, and I can do colorwork. I had the right type of worsted yarn called for, so why not?

Brooklyn Tweed Shelter yarn in colors Old World, Amaranth, and Caraway
Shelter in Brown: Caraway, Red: Amaranth, Blue: Old World

The yarn is Brooklyn Tweed “Shelter” in colors: “Caraway” – the tan for my Main Color, “Amaranth” red for the ribbing, and “Old World” navy blue. I had this yarn on hand so had to find three colors that would work. In the end, I like the look. Here is the left hand mitt drying, in size Medium.

Things to Know Before Knitting This Pattern

First thing to know about this pattern is that the directions are in chart form. The chart shows a k1 MC, P1 CC for the ribbing, which is actually a corrugated rib. The designer does not mention this and assumes the knitter will know how to do corrugated ribbing.

Corrugated ribbing of Oulu Mitt pattern
Beginning left hand mitt

The pattern notes say that the instructions are “written for the Magic Loop method of working in the round” – but, that is not really important because the mitts can be knit with small circular needles (which I used) or DPNs. She only references Magic Loop for the cast-on and dividing stitches between needles. I don’t really see the point in mentioning this at all.

Each of the three sizes has a “right” and “left” mitt chart to follow – so 6 separate charts are included. I began with the left, medium size, and ran into trouble with the thumb colors. The color chart is off, and since it was my first mitt, I wondered if I was doing it wrong or if the pattern was supposed to be that way. Eventually, I had to do the alternating colors and ignore the thumb pattern. Because of this, my thumb colors are not all correct, but the yarn covers the mistakes well enough. This problem was not mentioned specifically by test knitters or previous knitters, but a few did mention having trouble in general.

Neither the right nor left hand chart made sense to me when it came to knitting the thumb. It could be me, or a problem with the pattern, I honestly don’t know. In general I can follow patterns, and I have knit mittens without any problem, but the Oulu pattern did not make sense.

Pattern is wrong for left hand thumb
Thumb chart is off

Getting Gauge

I did not knit a swatch and used my first, washed and dried mitt to get my gauge. My gauge is way off for rows, which is why I needed to add an extra pattern repeat at the top. I got 24 rows in four inches, and she (the designer) has 31 rows!

While I was knitting the first mitt, I thought the mitt would end up too tight. In fact I added a couple extra stitches near the knuckles to widen it a bit. But the day after I finished knitting, I wore it outside while feeding the birds on a cold 32 degree morning, and the fit was good. Then I washed it and began mitt #2.

Oulu cuff and back of hand pattern
Cuff and most of hand finished

Changes I Made to Thumb Knitting

Needle size & Thumb stitches: Although the mitt seemed tight at first, it ended up fitting me very nicely. I knit the size Medium, on size 6 needles for the ribbing at the cuff and top. The rest of the mitt was knit using size 7 needles.

I did not use the smaller, size 6 needles for the thumb, as the pattern calls for. In fact I added stitches, by picking up 4-5 in place of the 1 stitch, and it’s perfect. Doing as the pattern suggested would have created a very tight thumb – for me. If you are also a tight knitter, you may want to do the same on the thumb.

Wearing Oulu mitt for left hand
Before washing

Pattern repeats and bind off: I added one more repeat at the top of the hand to get the correct length for me – due to my smaller gauge. For the next pair I would maybe make the cuff shorter. It’s hard to say if I will appreciate the length on the wrist area.

The pattern calls for a “stretchy bind-off” and I did a regular, rather loose bind-off which was fine. Some of the reviewers mentioned that doing a stretchy bind-off made the top flare. I can imagine that would happen. As it turned out the top ribbing could have been more narrow overall. I will plan to decrease a couple of stitches before doing the top ribbing next time.

Finished! I had trouble following the pattern for both the right and left mitt. Don’t know if it was just me, or the pattern. I had to figure too many things out for myself. Maybe a more experienced knitter would not have this trouble.

Oulu mitts
Finished the Oulu Mitts before the end of 2020

Read More Knitting Stories