Rebel Cardigan Completed and Here is The Review

The Rebel Cardigan pattern is a newer design by knitwear designer Ankestrick. While knitting the Rebel Cardigan, I closely followed the pattern. The only modifications made were on the sleeves, which I left a bit looser as I knit to the cuff. I also did not do a tubular bind off.

On this page:
  • Knitting Sleeves, my mod for the cuff decrease.
  • Knitting the body
  • Hip width increases
  • Binding off, hmmm?
  • Finished Photos
My Decrease Row For Sleeve Cuff Ribbing

I stopped doing decreases when the stitch count was 58. For my size (4), decreases were to continue to 48 stitches. I like some width to the sleeve in case I wear something long-sleeve underneath.

The ribbing for the cuff is done on 48 stitches for my sweater size. I needed to decrease, in one row, to get from 58 stitches to 48 before doing the 1×1 ribbing. Here’s how I knit that decrease row to end up with 48 stitches:

On the next round I began the ribbing. I had been using DPNs for the sleeve but changed to a 9 inch circular for the rib. I really don’t know which way I like less – haha.

Once both sleeves were finished, I put the body stitches back onto my longer needle. I then kept knitting until I ran out of yarn.

Knitting the Body

The body of the rebel cardigan is back and forth knitting, while creating a very nice edging down the front. Panels of 1×1 rib on each side, while stockinette makes up the back. I usually knit my sleeves first and then finish up the body with the remaining yarn.

Making Increases for Hips

I decided to do some hip area increasing, which is mentioned in the pattern. At about 10 inches (body length measured under arm) I began to follow the increase suggestion. This means doing increases at front and back after 14 rows, then increases for the back only at the next 14 row mark. At least, that is how I figured it.

Not Doing a Tubular Bind Off, But What Are the Choices?

This sweater pattern calls for a Tubular BO (bind off) which is done with a sewing needle and not knitting needles. I don’t mind doing this bind off on a small sleeve circumference, but don’t really like it for an entire body bind off. It entails pulling yarn – long enough to do the whole hem – with a needle. I’m not super familiar with it, and didn’t want to mess up my bind off.

Also, the 1×1 rib is on two edges (front sections) with regular stockinette between, so how would I manage that? I guess there are tubular bind-offs for stockinette, but I’m not sure.

Bind Off Options to Consider

So I searched and found a “sewn bind off” shown here by Brooklyn Tweed. I suppose this is how you do it. Tubular to the stockinette, then sewn, and back to tubular for the other side.

It would have been nice to have been given other bind-off options and suggestions in the pattern. And would it be possible to do the sewn / tubular bind off in sections? I don’t think so.

As it ended up I did a normal bind off in pattern (k1,p1) until I got to the stockinette section (the back). Then, I did an Icelandic bind off for the stockinette. This has caused the back section to curl.

Rebel Cardigan bind off with curling edge at stockinette section.

I’m using my blocking pins to hold down the stockinette hem. Now that it is mostly dry, the hem is flat (yay)! You can see, in my photo above, the shaping where the increases were made further down the body.

Like most people, I am naturally a bit bigger in the hips than the waist, so I recommend doing these increases for the longer version.

Knitting For Olive Yarn

I chose to knit the Rebel using two yarns held together. I had just finished up knitting the Field Sweater pullover and used the same types of yarn (Knitting for Olive). I am very happy with the outcome, and do love this yarn. The Mohair is not as fly-away as some others I’ve used.

The Knitting For Olive company is RAF certified, and that means they create their yarn in an “ethical and responsible” way.

Finished Knitting Sweater Photos

The washing and blocking to dry has not been done yet. See that little bump on my shoulder? That happened when picking up stitches, so be careful and take your time to make the seam look smooth.

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Cast On For the Rebel Cardigan

Some info here on beginning the Rebel cardigan. This is a top down sweater with a very unique construction at the beginning, which sets up the remainder of the knitting.

The Rebel Cardigan has been on my list of “to knit” items for a few weeks now. I had to finish knitting the Field Sweater, which I did, and immediately cast on this new pattern. (Pattern link at the bottom of this page.)

I’ve never begun a sweater like this. It’s begun in small sections, putting stitches on hold, and then knitting in another direction. It honestly looks a little weird.

This will be a long-sleeve sweater with an open front and no buttons or button-band to knit separately. This greatly appeals to me! I love the look of it.

Getting Started

The yarn I chose is by Knitting For Olive. I’m holding two strands, merino and mohair, together. The colors are Pea Shoots and Dusty Artichoke.

I’m knitting the Rebel sweater size 4, using needles size 6US.

Knitting for Olive yarn in green
Pea Shoots and Dusty Artichoke colors by Knitting for Olive.

The Rebel Cardigan pattern is written very well. Schematics are included so we are sure to know exactly where to begin knitting each of the sections. This is very helpful.

While knitting, we are putting stitches on hold (waste yarn), picking up stitches from edges and from waste yarn. All this is forming the collar, back, and right and left front. Soon it will all come together and make more sense, I’m sure.

Rebel cardigan knit in sections to form the collar, back and sides.

Below is my photo after all sections of the Rebel cardigan are attached. Now knitting is done back and forth – knitting on the right side and purling on the wrong side, while increases are made for the sleeves and the back / body.

knitting Rebel cardigan
All section attached

The sweater will end up with a wide 1×1 ribbing down both sides of the front. The sleeves and remainder of body are knit in smooth stockinette. It’s a pretty clever design. One reason for doing the knitting this way is to help keep the sweater sitting correctly on the shoulders, and not slipping off as some cardigans have a tendency to do.

If you are interested in knitting this unique sweater, I have provided a link to the pattern here, which goes to the designer’s Ravelry page.

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