Tips For Beginning the Birthday61 Sweater Project

I’ve begun knitting the Birthday61 sweater pattern in half-fisherman’s rib. Here is my review with advice and tips for beginning this knitting project.

The Birthday61 sweater is a one-color pullover that is knit in half-fisherman’s rib. The yarn suggestion is fine fingering. My swatch is done and I have begun the project.

I sometimes get questions from readers related to a pattern. So I want to supply as much information now as possible NOW when the pattern is fresh in my mind. Five years from now (or even 5 months), I will have forgotten what I did.

Answering Your Questions About the Pattern

First I want to emphasize that Ankestrick has a forum at Ravelry that is especially for help knitting her patterns. That is where you should ask pattern questions! Begin on this page (sign into Ravelry to view) and search for your pattern alphabetically. Every pattern, by Ankestrick, is listed, so find the one you are working on, and ask the question there. I had a question about knitting the swatch, and I received a fast reply.

I am writing this blog post to help you knit this project. However, by the time you read this, I may have completed this sweater long ago. I will most likely not remember how to answer your question. Use the Ravelry forum for best results.

Also, Anke has a list of Special Techniques for her patterns. I watched her video for casting on and followed it without much of a problem. Although, the knits and purls tend to curl up and look bad, I managed to get through it.

Beginning the Pattern, the Cast On

I did Anke’s cast-on and row 1, which is the set up row, using a size 0 needle. (See her techniques link above.)

On Row 2, I switched to my main size 1 needle (16″ circular). I’m not sure this is necessary, and the designer does not suggest it. But the cast-on is like the Italian tubular where a smaller needle is used first. *Also, be sure that join looks good. It will be prominent in the middle front of the sweater neck.

Yoke markers and short rows could be confusing for some knitters. The directions are excellent. The designer provides a diagram for the placement of the stitch markers. This is very helpful for knitting the short rows.

To help keep things straight, I used various colored stitch markers. The colors designate a different section. The front (pink) and back (black) and sleeves (green-blue) – will get the increases. All of those sections are separated by a raglan section which will not be increased.

The color coding helped me a lot to visualize which part of the sweater I was knitting. Be sure the BOR marker is easy to see – make it different (I used a seahorse).

Birthday61 sweater cast on
Marker placement – BEFORE the yarn break for Birthday61

To begin with, the beginning of the round is in the front. Then, later we move it to the back.

Dealing With Knitting Mistakes

I picked up the project to get a new picture for this post and found a BIG FAT MISTAKE! It was staring me in the face, and is very obvious. It is a few rows back and I will not be trying to fix it. It is in a raglan section and I knit the whole section incorrectly. But I occasionally have small mistakes to fix.

I can’t believe I already have a mistake, but it won’t be the last. I only hope that my goofs won’t be too noticeable once the sweater is complete.

Missed the Increase? Here’s what to do.

This brings me to another issue I had. How do I fix, or rip back, a half-fisherman’s rib stitch? It’s tricky. It is helpful to use a tiny crochet hook. When you un-knit the stitch, it will leave 2 strands on your needle. One must be pulled through under the other and put back onto the left needle.

This happens to me when I am on an increase round and I forget to do the increase at the beginning, or end, of the section. I’ve already begun a new section when I remember I should have made the increase. I will only rip back a few stitches at most. If I am far ahead, I simply make up the increase later.

1. Ripping back Fisherman’s Rib – I’m not sure why she has 3 strands to deal with except that it’s not “half” fisherman’s rib. She is knitting the same rib on both sides of her work. We are knitting into the loop below on every other round for this sweater, which is called half fisherman’s rib. To fix a stitch we still have to pull a stitch under the other one.

2. Here is a video about fixing a mistake in half fisherman’s rib when the mistake is many rows back. It’s a little intimidating to me. Some of you may find it helpful.

*Be sure to count your stitches in each front, back and sleeve section and make sure they match up to the pattern. This helps point out missed increases.

Where I’m at on this Project Today

After many hours of knitting, I am still finishing the yoke. I have not separated for the sleeves yet. I’m measuring lengths to be sure the yoke does not get too long. For my size, the yoke length should be 9 inches and I’m nearly there.

knitting Birthday61 sweater
Progress on Birthday61

And then this…

It is mid January and I have separated the body and sleeves. I added waste yarn the same way I always do – with two strands. It went fine.

I’ll have to add a few increases as I begin the body because my counts were off. The yoke was getting long and I skipped a few rounds before the separation. I have 115 for back and front. It should be 123 for my size. I need to add 8 stitches to each – front and back. I’m not worried about the missing 2 stitches for each sleeve.

knitting sweater sleeve and body separation
Sleeves and body separated

I am loving the yarn. The light color makes knitting easy.

More sweater knitting posts

Solvi, Another New Sweater in the Works

While I don’t really need another project on my knitting needles, I began a new sweater pattern anyway.

This pretty Shetland yarn, by Harrisville Designs, has been calling to me. The color is Peacock, and is so pretty. The contrast colorwork design will be done with a variety of wool colors I already have.

Here, I am using Tukuwool, J&S and Rauma. My plan is to have a low contrast between the main color and contrast color.

About the Solvi Pattern

The Solvi sweater pattern is from designer Jennifer Steingass. You can see the pattern page at Ravelry here.

Solvi means “sun strength” in Norwegian (info from Jenn’s Ravelry page). The pullover has a colorwork yoke and long sleeves. After the cast-on, choose either a rolled neckline or 1×1 rib. The designer says it is a good pattern for beginners. I assume she means beginner colorwork knitters. If you can follow the chart, you can knit the yoke. Only two colors are used at any one time. One small section of the chart can be omitted to shorten the yoke.

As a beginner knitter, this pattern would have been tough for me. The reason being that I was not a good chart reader at the beginning of my knitting journey. I also had no idea what short rows did for a sweater.

Now, I would only knit sweaters that do include short rows. In the Solvi pattern, short rows are incorporated after the colorwork section. This happens way down by the armpit area, which is odd. Short rows are usually made near the upper back area to lift the back of the neck.

Why I Chose This Pattern

I was hoping to find a pattern that inspired me, and the Fallow sweater was at the top of my list … for a while. Then I discovered Solvi in my knitting folder (an actual folder, not online) which I had purchased a while ago.

The Peacock blue yarn amounts to a little less than 1300 yards, which is not enough for my size. But we’ll see. I’m now knitting the body ribbing and have two full skeins of yarn left. I’m thinking that one for each sleeve should be plenty.

Solvi pullover sweater pattern
Knitting body ribbing

Fall is a hard time of year for me. While everyone is winding down from summer, and viewing the foliage, and breathing fresh autumn air, I am still sweltering in the Florida heat. Sweater season has arrived, and new patterns are showing up all over the place. Everyone (it seems) is digging out their hand knits and wearing them.

For me, it’s the time of year to keep an eye on the tropical storms and hurricanes (Milton hit my area as a Category 1 in October).

I’ve lost interest in knitting over the past few months, and I’m not sure why. Even so, I have not stopped knitting. My projects are many, because when one begins to bore me, I take up another. You may say, “me too” or “that is normal, we all do that!” but the passion is not there. It is just a life slump. They come, and go, so I’ll wait and it will pass.

I am a bit excited to try some new yarn, which will arrive any day now. I may use it to knit Fallow. We’ll see.

More knitting stories

Cast On For the Rebel Cardigan

Some info here on beginning the Rebel cardigan. This is a top down sweater with a very unique construction at the beginning, which sets up the remainder of the knitting.

The Rebel Cardigan has been on my list of “to knit” items for a few weeks now. I had to finish knitting the Field Sweater, which I did, and immediately cast on this new pattern. (Pattern link at the bottom of this page.)

I’ve never begun a sweater like this. It’s begun in small sections, putting stitches on hold, and then knitting in another direction. It honestly looks a little weird.

This will be a long-sleeve sweater with an open front and no buttons or button-band to knit separately. This greatly appeals to me! I love the look of it.

Getting Started

The yarn I chose is by Knitting For Olive. I’m holding two strands, merino and mohair, together. The colors are Pea Shoots and Dusty Artichoke.

I’m knitting the Rebel sweater size 4, using needles size 6US.

Knitting for Olive yarn in green
Pea Shoots and Dusty Artichoke colors by Knitting for Olive.

The Rebel Cardigan pattern is written very well. Schematics are included so we are sure to know exactly where to begin knitting each of the sections. This is very helpful.

While knitting, we are putting stitches on hold (waste yarn), picking up stitches from edges and from waste yarn. All this is forming the collar, back, and right and left front. Soon it will all come together and make more sense, I’m sure.

Rebel cardigan knit in sections to form the collar, back and sides.

Below is my photo after all sections of the Rebel cardigan are attached. Now knitting is done back and forth – knitting on the right side and purling on the wrong side, while increases are made for the sleeves and the back / body.

knitting Rebel cardigan
All section attached

The sweater will end up with a wide 1×1 ribbing down both sides of the front. The sleeves and remainder of body are knit in smooth stockinette. It’s a pretty clever design. One reason for doing the knitting this way is to help keep the sweater sitting correctly on the shoulders, and not slipping off as some cardigans have a tendency to do.

If you are interested in knitting this unique sweater, I have provided a link to the pattern here, which goes to the designer’s Ravelry page.

Read the Blog

Knitting The Brodgar Poncho Pattern

An easy poncho pattern that needs a lot of yarn, but would be good for beginner knitters.

I’ve always loved the freedom of movement when wearing a poncho. Like being wrapped in a soft blanket, ponchos are warm and unique outerwear. They come in so many styles and sizes that there is surely a poncho pattern to make everyone happy.

As I was browsing Ravelry one day, I came across Brodgar, which is a poncho pattern by Laura Aylor. It looked easy enough that I could handle it… So I ordered yarn from Miss Babs and knit and knit and knit on this project…..THEN

I ran out of yarn. It is my fault for not considering the size and yarn needs. Two skeins of Yowza will knit a Small size, but it’s not enough for the larger sizes.

Brodgar poncho knitting

Yowza Yarn

I chose Yowza yarn by Miss Babs in color way Cordovan, which is a maroon red color. This is a Superwash wool, which means it can be washed in a machine. All hand knits should be hand-washed, but for those people who simply don’t have time, or won’t do it, a beautiful Superwash yarn is a good choice. I would still recommend using a laundry bag (Amazon paid link) and laying the item flat to dry.

Knitting the Brodgar Poncho
Brodgar Poncho

Knitting to the Sad End

The pattern was quite easy to follow, but the knitting was quite boring. Everything is either a knit stitch or a purl. The pattern is created by those two stitches, and then once the pattern area is done, the rest of the poncho is still only knits and purls – to create stockinette – and the same stitches for making that edge ribbing.

For beginners: This is a good pattern choice. A chart is included, but every row is also written out. For those who can’t follow a chart, or want to check what they are doing, the written part is very helpful.

Once the entire length of the poncho is knit, a section will be grafted together to leave a neck opening. You MUST complete the textured part for the ends to look okay!

Yarn Amounts – Do Pay Attention

This poncho project has been something I knit for a bit and then leave to do another project. Each big skein of Yowza contains 560 yards. The size Medium poncho takes more yarn than that and I ran out of yarn. I was not going to buy another $52 skein of yarn, but I really should have because the ends (where the design is) don’t match up. This makes it look stupid.

If you want the Yowza skeins, one suggestion might be to do both textured sections – beginning and end of pattern – in a different color. Those two big skeins of Yowza should be enough for the long, middle section.

I will probably frog this project and use the yarn for something else.

cats and yarn

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